Ukraine is nobody’s paradise, but nor should it be dismissed as colourless or uninspiring, as many of its visitors do. In the north-west of the central part of Kiev there is a district called Lukyanivska, where I lived for a year soon after arriving in the city. From the balcony of my apartment I could see the onion-shaped golden domes of a Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the distance. I never visited it until, returning to my old neighbourhood one winter morning, another sight of the domes through a gap in some buildings peaked my curiosity.
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Ukraine is nobody’s paradise, but nor should it be dismissed as colourless or uninspiring, as many of its visitors do. In the north-west of the central part of Kiev there is a district called Lukyanivska, where I lived for a year soon after arriving in the city. From the balcony of my apartment I could see the onion-shaped golden domes of a Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the distance. I never visited it until, returning to my old neighbourhood one winter morning, another sight of the domes through a gap in some buildings peaked my curiosity.
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