The 9th-century founding of Novgorod by the Viking Rurik initiated a more than thousand-year history of wealth and war, trial and loss, conquest, Communism, and tyranny. The monarchic splendor and seething peasant ideology of old Russia, coupled with the complex social, economic, and political changes brought about during the Soviet era, survive today in one form or another in what is possibly the most enigmatic yet of this country’s many incarnations.

The Russian people cannot be defined merely by geography, climate, language, ethnicity, or shared history. Despite its comparatively small population (Indonesia, a country roughly nine times smaller, has a population twice as large), the Russians bring with them heritage and cultural diversity tied to Western and Eastern Europe, Scandinavia, the Near East and Asian Steppe, the Arctic north, and East Asia. Among Russia’s conquering parties since its inception are the Swedes, the Tatars, and the Mongols, to say nothing of the long-emergent Western culture that has been alternately embraced and rejected by changing governments. If you want to know Russia, you have to know its people: the soul of this country and its dramatic, often jubilant, and sometimes terrifying history is spelled out by their actions and their lives.

Modern Russia, in the post-Gorbachev era, has been plagued by economic instability, political indecision, and corruption both within government and civil organizations outside of them. Crime and drug abuse are at shocking highs, and protectionist politicians and shady industrial leaders are seemingly at odds with each other. Despite this, there remains a great deal of optimism among the Russian people. Theirs is a society bred out of hardship, but also out of great respect for academia, the arts, and sciences.

NOTE: Travelers are advised against travel in Chechnya and Dagestan. It is currently unsafe to travel in these areas, as well as in neighboring Ingushetia. Other areas of concern are North Ossetia, Stavropol, Karachayevo-Cherkessiya, and Kabardino-Balkariya. Consular support in each of these areas can be negligible or nonexistent.

Traveling in Russia
All visitors to Russia require a visa. Meal prices range from US$5-$10 (budget) to to US$15-$25 (higher end). Lodging prices go from US$15-$45 (budget) to US$100+ (high end). Carrying cash (in U.S. dollars) can be risky, especially in larger cities where crime rates have soared; however, the U.S. dollar is the easiest to convert. Traveler’s checks can be frustratingly difficult to change, and credit card advances are generally available in the cities, but not in the rural areas.

High-end hotels and restaurants will typically include a tip in your bill. Porters may expect a tip of roughly US$1 per bag, and while shop prices are often non-negotiable, you’ll be expected to bargain in markets.

Daily flights to Moscow can be taken from New York, most major European cities, as well as Hong Kong and other Asian centers. Many European cities also fly direct to St. Petersburg. Train routes into Russia run mostly through Helsinki, Warsaw, Prague, and Budapest, with some trains originating in Paris and Amsterdam. Also, the Trans-Siberian Railway connects to a Beijing line. There is ferry service from parts of Scandinavia, Germany, Turkey, and Georgia.

Within European Russia, the best methods of travel are train, bus, or–in the summer–passenger boats on the rivers. If you’re going farther afield, take note that deregulation in the domestic airline industry has made flying not just inconvenient, but often unsafe. Try to book a domestic flight with an international teminus, since international flights are required to meet a specific standard.

Health concerns may include Diphtheria, Hepatitis, Rabies, Typhoid.

Weather in Russia
Because of the sprawling size of Russia, no one climatalogical summary would suffice. Moscow and St. Petersburg have similar summer temperatures (averaging roughly 24°C). Moscow is in the thick of winter by the end of November, emerging from the cold around mid-April. Winter temps average around -12°C. St. Petersburg’s average winter temperature is about -8°C. Vladivostok, on the Pacific coast, has somewhat milder weather than elsewhere in the Russian Far East. The northeastern town of Oymyakon, is the coldest inhabited place on earth, with winter temperatures plunging to -65°C.

Russian Federation Information
Population:
145.5 million
Government: Federation
Area: 17 million sq km
Capitol: Moscow (pop 9 million)
Language: Russian
People: 81% Russian, 4% Tatar, 3% Ukrainian and numerous ethnic minorities
Religion: Russian Orthodox, Islam, Animist
Major products/industries: Oil, coal, iron ore, timber, automotive, agricultural and construction equipment

Posted: January 28th, 2003 under Asia, Europe & the Middle East.
Comments: none

Egypt might be considered the world’s oldest tourist destination. With a plethora of cultural artifacts dating back thousands of years, and a long history of artistic, political, intellectual, and commercial milestones, the country and region have been attracting travelers since ancient times. The pyramids and tombs are not the only reason to visit Egypt. There is an extraordinary amount of art and architecture including relics from centuries of Greek, Roman, and Arabic occupation. All along the River Nile you can see different parts of Egyptian history that have survived thousands of years of cultural change and the rapid growth.

But Egypt, like so many ancient lands, has entered the modern world paradoxically. Laborers often use the tools of their ancestors to farm, while the automobile traffic in the cities can be maddening. These contrasts are all over Egypt, and how much modernization Egypt accepts will ultimately effect the past, as well as the future of this great land.

Traveling in Egypt
Most flights connect to Egypt through European cities. Flying domestically in Egypt can be expensive, but there are trains, buses, and boats that will take you anywhere you want to go. Trains and buses can be extremely crowded because they usually wait until they cannot fit another body, before pulling away from the station. This may be uncomfortable, but it’s a great way to immerse yourself in the culture.

Everyone traveling to Egypt is required to obtain a visa, avaible from Egyptian embassies worldwide. However, if you are from the United Stated, the European Union, Canada, or one of GCC countries, you can get a visa upon arrival at one of the larger airports, but you may want to deal with this beforehand, to avoid the trouble. Most visas last for one month, but they can generally be extended.

Traveling in Egypt is cheap: most meals cost under US$5, good hotels can be found for under US$50 a night, many are under US$25.

There are plenty of pickpockets around so it is a good idea to be extra careful with cash or valuables. Traveler’s checks are still a good way to carry cash as long as they are American Express or Visa. Credit Cards are accepted in some places, and there are ATM’s in larger cities.

Gratuities are generally included in the bill, but you might double check to be sure. Haggling for items at the market and elsewhere is a way of life in Egypt, so don’t take anything at first glance–the cost of most products can be bargained down, including hotel rooms and other goods. A rule of thumb, when haggling, is never offer a price if you are not willing to pay it; if a shop keeper accepts your offer you, will be expected hand over the cash, pronto. Don’t bargain hunt if you’re not going to purchase–it could get you into trouble.

Weather in Egypt
South of Cairo, toward Luxor and Aswan, the blazing heat can be very uncomforable between June and August. However, this is also the most crowded time of year around the Mediterranean Coast. So when you choose to go depends entirely on what you want to do. The best time to travel south of Cairo is December to February. If you want to enjoy the north shore, March to May is the least crowded time when the weather will still be warm.

Health Concerns in Egypt
Bilharzia ranks second behind malaria as a public health concern in tropical and subtropical areas. You can get this disease through contact with infected water, and in Egypt, it is mainly found in the waters of the Nile.

Diagnosing bilharzia is done by checking a patient’s urine or fecal matter. If you want to keep from getting this disease it is best to stay away from fresh water rivers and streams, especially near agricultural areas. For more information check out the following website: http: //www.who.ch/.

Egypt Information
Population: 69.5 million
Government: Republic
Square Miles: 622,272 sq mi (1,001,449 sq km)
Capitols: Cairo
Languages: Arabic
People: Berbers, Bedouins, and Nubians
Religion: 94% Islam, 6% Christian
Major products/industries: Oil & gas, metals, tourism, agriculture (especially cotton), and Suez Canal revenues

Posted: January 27th, 2003 under Africa.
Comments: none

Australia is one of the world’s most unique natural habitats. Because it is isolated from most of the world, it has a wide variety of animals unique to its continent, and landscape that seems as impossible to live in as it is stunningly beautiful. It’s hard to justify trying to see all of Australia in just one trip. You will see some of the best beaches, experience some of the most inspiring wildlife, and meet among the finest people the world has to offer.

The Australian Aborigines, have the longest continuous cultural history in the world, and were in Australia thousands of years before anyone else set foot on the continent.

Europeans explorers came to Australia in the 16th century: first the Portuguese, then the Dutch explorers, and finally English pirate William Dampier. Captain James Cook sailed the eastern coast in 1770, on his famous voyage stopping at Botany Bay and literally running into the Great Barrier Reef. He claimed the continent for the British.

In 1787, a fleet of 11 ships, 750 male and female convicts, and four companies of marines landed in Botany Bay. For the new arrivals, Australia was a harsh and horrible place; starvation was a constant threat.

Traveling in Australia
Australia’s climate differs a great deal depending on what part of the continent you are visiting. If you plan on staying in the southeast, near Melbourne or Sydney the climate is very nice year round. But up north in Queensland and the Northern Territory it can be brutal. The Australian continent is roughly the size of the United States; unless you plan to take a single long trip there, it will be difficult to see and do all that’s available to you. Focusing on specific parts of the continent is the best plan, so you get the most out of your experience. But don’t think that because you’ve seen Sydney, that you have seen Australia. That would be like going to New York City and saying you’ve seen the U.S. There’s a lot more to this beautiful land than its flagship city.

Weather in Australia
Much of Australia has great weather throughout the year, and there really isn’t a bad time to go. However, from December to February (Southern Hemispheric summer) it can be quite hot, and is best to be on the southern beaches. In the northern parts, in summer, it’s often wet and humid. The oceans to the north can also be unswimable due to the box jellyfish, which is one of many poisonous animal species in Australia.
AustraliaAustralia
Population:
19.5 million
Government:
Independent member of the British Commonwealth
Square Miles:
2,966,200 sq mi (7,682,300 sq km)
Capitol:
Canberra (pop: 313,000)
Official Language:
English, Aboriginal languages
People:
94% European descent, 4% Asian, 1.5% Aboriginal
Religion:
75% Christian, 1% Muslim, 1% Buddhist
Major products/industries:
Minerals, oil, coal, gold, wool, cereals, meat

Posted: January 27th, 2003 under Australia/Oceania.
Comments: none

I was already aware of the intricacies of British culture, having lived in England previously as a history teacher at a rural boarding school, during my first year out of college. But I later moved to the capital city–working toward a Master’s degree in Environment and Development at the London School of Economics–which made that prior experience seem about as exciting as reading VCR instructions. What struck me most was London’s diversity, geographical mix, and relentless pulse.

By their very nature, cities will always be more diverse than rural communities, but London seems to stand out above the rest. On my 45-minute bus ride home from university, each day, I would regularly hear over five different languages, including regional African dialects spoken by statuesque women in fully robed regalia. My local borough (I lived in Herne Hill, near Brixton) equips its police officers with a handbook on how to approach citizens in over 20 languages. Walking from the bus stop to my house, I passed by Jamaicans, Trinidadians, Poles, and Koreans; flags waving and music blaring outside their shops and homes. All of this brought to mind a metaphor usually reserved for my native country: London is truly a great mixed salad. There is much less national identity in London, these days, as opposed to, say, during the time of Splendid Isolation–the national flag, for instance, carries very little symbolic value for most Brits, and there is no equivalent to the American “Pledge of Allegiance.” Each nationality retains its own cultural identity, merging seamlessly in the context of the professional world, while simultaneously promoting unique fashion, food, style, and slang that burst and fade in friendly competition. One can symbolically travel the world in London with merely a $3 bus pass and a good pair of shoes.

Further, while mixed-class development projects are now taking root in North America in reaction to the crumbling of inner cities, London, for the most part, avoided this structural weathering by virtue of the tragic and destructive effects of the Second World War. It was not good foresight, but rather the London Blitz, that forced the creation of an urban geography of wealthy and nonwealthy classes well-mixed along the same street. The 1940 bombing by German warplanes was indiscriminate in London, pockmarking all areas of the city with craters where once stood homes and businesses. After the war, the British government initiated the “Homes for Heroes” program to house returning veterans, transforming the rubble into massive housing estates that often rise awkwardly above Georgian and Edwardian masterpieces. Over time these individual “council flats” were sold on the market or converted to low-income housing, and now they dot the London landscape, even in the poshest suburbs and high streets (shopping areas). Proximity breeds tolerance on both sides, and as a result, the city seems relatively at ease with class differences. Moreover, visitors can walk almost anywhere in London and rarely feel their safety threatened.

All of this contributes to an underlying vibe in London that is unparalleled. At first glance, a visitor may find the city to be a dazzling display of historical sites, facades of the Old World, and relics of the Crown. But with more time and closer inspection, London emerges as that fabled Congo river boat from Conrad’s classic, Heart of Darkness (which begins on the River Thames, just miles from London)–having stepped aboard, and not knowing who controls the wheel, speed, or direction, we are swept downstream among the jungle’s pulse and intensity, clinging first to the safety of what we know before regaining our will and walking freely through the bright lights, markets, and hushed corners of this great city. It is everyman’s and everywoman’s city, and the best way to know it is as such–with a pub on one side, and pub on the other.

London has, for centuries, conformed to its inhabitants and the demands of the country and world, first as a commercial port, then as the political and financial capital of the British Empire, followed by a trying period of heavy industry in the early 20th century, and finally reaching its present-day service- and tourism-based economy. If you do visit London, resist the temptation to take the convenient Tube–the city’s famed subway system. Take the bus instead, at least on your first day. Instead of popping out of dark ferret holes all day, you’ll see first hand how a city of 8 million people, cramped streets, and sparkling greens manages to contract, expand, and breathe with the daily demands of modern life. After a few days in “town” you may be reminded of the graceful words of Samuel Johnson, whose penned prose still seems to emanate from every Soho storefront and Hyde Park hollow: “He who is tired of London, is tired of life.”

Posted: January 8th, 2003 under Europe.
Comments: none

by Daren Stinson
During my four weeks in the United Kingdom last summer, I crisscrossed the country and reveled in its history, beauty, and variety. As the landscape changed, so did the dialects, architecture, culture, and food, but I did find one constant. I was constantly plagued by inadequate plumbing. I have friends and relatives who have been to the U.K. I have friends who are British. Why didn’t anyone warn me? Okay, the topic isn’t one likely to come up in polite conversation, but when my family asked me about my trip, I couldn’t help but express my frustration with the plumbing issues I faced daily. The Brits may take pride in their long history, progressive metropolises, and quaint country towns, but there is something to be said for modern convenience where you need it most: in the bathroom. Since my return, when I have had occasion to bring the subject up, I’ve gotten reactions ranging from surprise to a casual shrug as if it was something that everyone knew. For those of you who do not know, please read on…

Toilets
Considering the inventor of the flushable toilet, Albert Giblin (credit is often, wrongfully, bestowed upon Sir Thomas Crapper), was himself a Brit, there is little excuse for primitive nature of British loos. At first, I thought I was just having bad luck, but after comparing notes with a fellow traveler, and discovering that she had encountered the same problems, we had a lengthy discussion about our experiences and came to the following conclusion: it takes at least three flushes to do the job. Holding the handle down longer doesn’t help and, in fact, can exacerbate the problem. I spent 20 minutes some days just trying to make sure that the loo was fully flushed for the next person.

Apparently, poorly functioning toilets are so widespread throughout the country that everyone just incorporates it into their day, like breathing. Near the end of my trip, I asked a friend who is a native Brit if he’d ever noticed problems flushing the toilets. He just shrugged. He didn’t seem to care. I wondered if his casual attitude was because he’d never experienced a properly functioning toilet? My advice: let the toilet water run full cycle before trying again, and if you are in a big hurry, try to sneak out of the bathroom before anyone figures out which stall you used.

The one bright spot I found during my toilet toiling was that Brits do have a sense of humor, however subtle and twisted. They annually acknowledge the “Loo of the Year” (see http://freespace.virgin.net/martin.higham/).

I expect there is a long checklist of qualifications used to determine which public facility deserves such an honor, however, flushability is the obvious exemption. I know this because I used the bathroom at Castle Howard (outside of York, in North England) recipient of “2001 Loo of the Year” award. While the bathroom was attractive, with wood paneled stalls and Corian-style wash basins, I ranked it in my top three most troublesome flushing experiences (and make no mistake, that was not due to my contributions).

I did have a favorite public bathroom. It was in a little café in Guildford, about an hour south of London. The washroom was very small–actually closet-like–and had just one toilet and a very small sink. Despite the lack of elbow room (don’t try to bring your backpack in there), it had two very key benefits, a unique toilet seat and a one-flush-and-you’re-all-set feature. The toilet seat was outstanding. It was made of clear plastic, and suspended inside the mold were pieces of candy: lifesavers, gummy bears, gumdrops, peppermint swirls, and lollipops. My only regret from my entire trip was that I did not have my camera in there with me to take a picture of this seat. The fact that the toilet flushed on the first try was an added bonus, and the combination alone should qualify it hands down as the “Premier Loo of the U.K.” (For more on British toilets, see http://www.britloos.co.uk/.)

While the toilets were troublesome, they were at times amusing. What I found distinctly less amusing was what the people of Britain accept as a sorry excuse for a shower.

Showers
I never did get confirmation on this, but I decided that British people must take a lot of baths because, aside from in the newer buildings (and even sometimes in those), every place I stayed had a bathtub with a makeshift shower. By makeshift I mean, instead of a sturdy chrome shower head poking through a wall of tile, as you might expect in many other first-world countries, a bather is instead faced with a hose-like contraption bracketed up the wall above the tub faucet and topped with a small plastic showerhead, all resembling a slightly larger version of one of those flexi-hose nozzles used to help rinse dishes in the kitchen sink. It was as if someone had traveled to America, been impressed by our quick and convenient method of bathing, and rushed home to the mother land to jerry rig a similar contraption from a piece of garden hose and a small sprinkler head. And after it was done once, the idea took off like wildfire across the country, with every copy cat using the same cheap parts.

Another interesting feature is that no shower in the U.K. operates by simply turning on the water–that would be too easy. Every single shower I used had a trick to it. You have to find the pull-cord or the red switch or knob, or all three, before you could get the eventual trickle of water to leak out. I strongly advise travelers to ask your host how the shower works before you are left alone in the bathroom to fend for yourself.

Also, since water pressure seems to be potluck, I often had trouble rinsing the shampoo from my hair, and usually ended up with rather dull, flat locks. My solution: don’t wash your hair more than once a week (it looks the same clean or dirty under these conditions anyway). Another option is to finish showering, then rinse your hair under the tub faucet. This works better, but it was difficult to get into an effective position, and I felt a little silly trying, so I only did it once, when I was staying in York, home of the worst plumbing in the country. (I do advise that if you are really struggling with these toilet and shower issues, avoid York altogether.)

Water pressure problems are the main source of the flushing and showering struggles. Most British homes have only a 1/2-inch supply line to the water main (compared to the much larger standard American pipes), which will not provide enough water for simultaneous use of sinks, showers, and/or toilets. To get around this problem, many homes have installed a cistern in the attic that depends on gravity to distribute water through the rest of the house. This sometimes forces a homeowner to install a pump or heater/pump in places like the shower (hence the switches, knobs, and pull-cords mentioned above) just to have somewhat adequate water pressure. As it is, the materials used in shower construction are designed for low-pressure flow.

My personal theory (and this has not been confirmed) is that the plumbing in much of Britain was installed in the wake of the devastation caused by World War II, and has yet to undergo any major renovation since then. And because the Brits seem perfectly content to live with their showers and loos as is, we tourists who are used to a little something more must simply get used to it too. But if you’re like me and love to travel, but always end up writing “Things I Miss from Home” lists, you can be sure that your bathroom, will be at the tops of that list, and it will forever after hold a special place in your heart.

Posted: January 7th, 2003 under Europe.
Comments: none

Montserrat was once called the “Emerald Isle of the Caribbean,” a phrase coined by Columbus. It is graced with lush mountains and landscape crowned by three towering volcanoes. Unfortunately, one of those volcanoes–the Soufrière Hills volcano–erupted in 1995, making most of the island uninhabitable.

Now, most of Montserrat’s residents live off-island–many having since relocated to Britain–while a very few remain in the less affected northern part of the island, or in emergency shelters, while waiting out the “storm.” Even with a volcano that continues to erupt periodically, tourists visit Montserrat, though certainly not in the number they once did.

The capitol of Plymouth, with its Georgian-style houses and winding streets, now lays under many feet of ash.

Since the last major eruption, the governmental center of the island has been relocated to Brades near Carr’s Bay/Little Bay. But as of now, the island has no “cultural hub” like Plymouth was before the eruption. This can make finding provisions difficult since there is no major town center.

The only people allowed into the restricted (read: dangerous) zone are scientists or people with business in that area. But there are many helicopter tours available to give you a bird’s-eye view of the southern portion of the island.

Many locals who moved to England, Canada, or other British territories after the eruption are beginning to return and in the coming years Montserrat may again emerge as a major tourist destination, but for now it seems to only attract the courtesy of a few.

If you are interested in visiting the island, it’s best to contact the tourist board for updated information.

Traveling to/in Montserrat
To get to Montserrat you must fly to Antigua and either take a ferry or a helicopter charter to the island; the latter will prove to be a much more expensive route. The ferry ride takes about one hour, while the helicopter takes just twenty minutes. You can also arrive via helicopter from St. Kitts. To see the ferry or helicopter schedules click here.

Once on island, the best way to get around is either by taxi or rental a car. You can also get a bus tour from one of the island’s tour companies.

Weather in Montserrat
Because of its location, the weather in Montserrat is almost always warm. The average high temperature throughout the year is around 80°F. The rainiest time of year is between June and December. Weatherwise, the least desirable time to visit is during hurricane season, which runs from June through October.

Montserrat Information
Population: 5000 (est. 2000)
Government: Territory of the United Kingdom
Square Miles: 39.5 sq mi (102 sq km)
Capitol: Plymouth (mostly destroyed, August 1997)
Brades, in Carr’s Bay/Little Bay (established after eruption)
Official Languages: English
People: African (90%), mixed descent (6%), European and East Indian (4%)
Religion: Roman Catholic, Anglican, Methodist and other Christian denominations
Major products/industries: tourism (until 1995), rum, textiles, electronic appliances

Posted: January 5th, 2003 under North & Central America.
Comments: none

Charlotte Amalie, the capital of the United States Virgin Islands and the biggest cruise port in the Caribbean. It’s named for a Danish Queen, and the streets wind their ways though classic colonial architecture.

Posted: January 5th, 2003 under Caribbean.
Comments: none