Category: Travel

Travel Outward features articles written about travel worldwide. Browse all of our articles.

  • Travel Tips – Money / Currency

    Keep your money safe from thiefs or just figuring out exchange rates and other currency issues are important. Here are some ideas on how to make it easier for you. If you have any ideas to contribute please email us.

    Currency and exchange issues

    Never discount the usefulness of traveler’s checks–as old fashioned as they may seem, they can be a reliable means of exchanging currency and making purchases, particularly where credit card and ATM service is not available. Also, if you plan on traveling to only one country, change your currency before you go; many developing countries will only readily change more sought-after currency, so if you’re carrying Rands, Lira, or other, you may find it difficult to exchange these for the local currency.

    If you plan of visiting more than one country and don’t want to juggle envelopes full of different denominations, try to find out what is the most easily changed–the U.S. dollar is widely exchanged throughout the world, so if your country’s currency is not as easy to change, it may be worth carrying U.S. dollars (or another common currency, such as the pound stirling) while you travel. This, naturally, applies to traveler’s checks as well as to cash.

    Foreign ATM machines

    No matter how globalized we think the world is, there are always going to be places where it’s just plain impossible to get cash in an emergency. Most first-world countries will have a well-developed network of ATM machines that accept cards issued by major banking services. But as you get into the developing world, you’ll inevitably run into a number of roadblocks. In many developing countries, ATMs can only be found in major urban areas such as the country’s capitol. And often these machines will only accept cards that were issued by that specific bank, leaving the rest of us tourists out of luck. And of course, the majority of the developing world still doesn’t have access to or an infrastructure for such luxuries as the automatic teller.

    Before going on a trip, particularly to a developing country, be sure to do your research: find out what major credit cards are readily accepted, whether or not ATM machines are common, and if your card will be compatible with them.

    Credit card problems

    It’s not uncommon to find yourself in the middle of an extended trip with a credit card that no longer works, not because you failed to pay your bill, but because the card issuer froze your account for security reasons. This is not meant to be a malicious, or even inconvenient, act. In fact, it’s the credit card company’s way of doing its job: protecting you and itself from credit card fraud. Most card issuers monitor spending patterns, including average monthly bills and the general region of purchases made. When a traveler depends on his/her credit card away from home, this often raises a caution flag to the card issuer that someone may have stolen the card and is going on a “cross country” spending spree. They will thus freeze that account and wait for the card holder to call and confirm the theft or not.

    To play it safe, always keep a record of your card issuer’s customer service number (and check for a separate number if you’re traveling overseas) so you can make that call when necessary, and alert your credit card company before going on a trip, so they don’t mistakenly freeze your account. It’s also a good idea to pay your bill in full before leaving on a long trip, so as not to have your credit card canceled because of delinquent payments.

    Protecting your travelers checks

    Traveler’s checks are often thought of as the safest and most reliable way traveling cash free. While this may be true, it doesn’t mean they can’t be lost or stolen and used by someone else. You cannot always prevent this from happening, but you can take measures to make it easier to report and replace lost or stolen checks. First, it helps to make copies of your travelers checks, or at least keep a record of their serial numbers. Second, make sure you know the denomination of your checks; it may be easier to get all of them in just one denomination, but keep in mind that you may have trouble cashing large denominations in certain places. Third, know the date and location you purchased your traveler’s checks and always get a phone number to report them lost or stolen. Doing these things won’t guarantee your security, but it will make your life easier in the event of such an emergency. Money conversion cheat sheet

    A really handy, wallet-sized currency cheat sheet can be obtained online and printed with the touch of a few buttons. Log on to OandA.com (http://www.oanda.com) and select “Traveler.” Choose “Print Travelers Currency Cheat Sheet” and select the appropriate home and destination countries, then click on “Get My Cheat Sheet.” It’s that simple.

    The Web site allows you to customize your cheat sheet according to various exchange rates (cash, credit, interbank, etc.), languages, and specific dates. And because it’s continuously updated, it’s also a convenient reference for keeping track of worldwide currencies.

    Don’t attract criminals

    The best way to keep from attracting a thief’s attention is to avoid wearing expensive looking jewelry and having cameras and other pricey items out for all to see. Keep your jewelry covered up or under lock and key at your hotel (most higher-end hotels will have a safe either in the room or at the reception desk). Cameras should be kept out of site as well–either tucked into bag or backpack when not in use, or better yet, strapped around your neck and under your jacket. Smaller point-and-shoot cameras will often fit into a pocket on the inside of your coat. Carrying large amounts of money

    When carrying large amounts of money, especially in major cities where pickpockets are prevalent, it is a good idea to have a money belt that you wear underneath your clothing. Only keep small amounts in your pockets, keep everything else zipped up in the belt, including your passport and credit cards if possible. If you know you will be needing a credit card, you can take it out beforehand; this way, if you are robbed, most likely the thieves will only get away with a small amount of cash.

    Money conversion

    It’s a great idea, when dealing with money conversion, to carry a small pocket calculator. All you need to know is the exchange rate, and with one quick calculation you’ll know exactly what you owe. If you’re to embarrassed to pull out a calculator when browsing for gifts to bring home, you can write a out quick cheat sheet of the exchange for $1, $5, $10, $20, $50, and so on. This should make it easier to figure out the appropriate price of things without having to draw too much attention to yourself.

  • Travel Tips – Miscellaneous

    Knowing certain things before you head out can help you avoid the headaches and inconveniences that can ruin a great trip. We’re compiling tips for everything from keeping your money safe to information on what you’ll need to do before hitting the road. If you have any ideas to contribute please email us.

    Know Your Knots

    For anyone traveling in the wilderness, boating, or just trying to tie something to the roof of your car, knowing your knots is essential. The “bowline” is a sailor’s classic, providing a slip-free knot with a loop on one end; the “sheet bend” is perfect if you want to temporarily connect two lengths of rope to make a single, longer piece; if you plan on hauling lumber, the “timber hitch” is the knot for you; and you can use a “trucker’s hitch” to keep that canoe on top of your station wagon while you’re speeding down the highway.

    Whatever your uses, a good resource is http://www.troop9.org/?s=knots/index. Here you can find animated images and instruction on tying these knots and more.

    Traveling with Film and Digital Photo Media

    If you plan on taking pictures while traveling, whether you use a traditional film camera or a digital camera, it’s a good idea to keep your undeveloped pictures in a carry-on bag as opposed to you checked luggage. The powerful airport baggage screening machines used for checked luggage have a much stronger signal than do the smaller versions used for carry-on bags. It’s possible for these more powerful machines to damage undeveloped film or digital data cards, meaning you could potentially lose all your pictures. Avoid home break-ins while on the road

    Don’t let crooks kill two birds with one stone. If you’re on the wrong end of a mugging and keep both your house keys and identification in your bag, a robber will know where you live and how to get in there. Whether traveling far or near, it’s a good idea to protect yourself: keep your keys separate and keep the robbers out of your home.

    Mobile computing

    As laptops get smaller, PDAs have enhanced capabilities, and cell phones become more technologically advanced, mobile computing is fast becoming the norm for travelers. If you plan on sending emails from the road, updating online travel logs, sending digital pictures, or more, and don’t want to be slave to cyber-cafes, look into some of the options above. Many of the smaller and more advanced devices on the market are still quite pricey, but there are some good deals to be found, and as more people turn to portability and independence for their on-the-road computing needs, prices will surely drop. These days a wireless laptop is a most for travelers who want to stay connected and in most big cities wireless networks can be easily found, just make sure your computer is protected against virus and others problems that can come from using unsecured wireless networks.

    Internet access numbers on the road

    For those intrepid souls taking your laptops on the road, don’t forget to bring a list of internet access numbers for your ISP. Wireless access is not yet ubiquitous, and many places won’t offer the comfort of a high-speed ethernet connection, so you may find that dial-up is the best (or only) way to go. Most ISPs will list state-by-state access numbers on their Web site, and may have toll-free numbers within the company’s home country. The larger services may even provide international numbers for connecting abroad. And for all you ramblers who may just hit the road and then decide where you’re going, check out your ISP’s home page before you head out and jot down a bunch of these numbers, so no matter where you are, you’ll find yourself connected.

    Traveler’s first-aid kit

    Accidents happen, both big and small… It’s always a good idea to play it safe when traveling and pack a first-aid kit. This should include (at least) the following items: Band-Aids; Bacitracin or other antibiotic ointment; iodine pads for larger cuts, and gauze with adhesive tape; moleskin; tweezers; thermometer in a hard case; nonaspirin pain reliever; medication for colds and diarrhea; motion sickness medication, such as Dramamine (if applicable); and any prescribed medications in original labeled containers.

    Traveling with disabilities

    The Americans with Disabilities Act prohibits travel-related businesses from discriminating against people on the basis of a disability, and mandates that the businesses make it possible for everyone to take advantage of their goods and services as fully as people without disabilities. However, while this is true in the United States (and for U.S.-based carriers), in much of the world there are still many questions about what qualifies as general accessibility for disabled people.

    If you’re traveling abroad, be sure to do your research. Talk with travel agents who specialize in planning trips for the disabled, make sure airlines and other carriers accommodate the needs of disabled passengers, and check for things like wheelchair accessibility at hotels, rules pertaining to guide dogs, and more.

    Emergency wheelchair repairs

    Traveling with a wheelchair doesn’t have to be difficult. One thing to keep in mind is, bicycle shops can often make emergency repairs on manual wheelchairs (and in some cases, on electric-powered chairs too). Bicycle tubes and tires are almost always interchangeable with wheelchair tires, and bike tubes are much less expensive. Also, bicycle shops generally have longer hours than hospital wheelchair departments or medical-supply houses, and are usually open on weekends.

    Identity theft — Mail

    Never leave for a trip and let your mail pile up in your mailbox. If a thief steals your mail, he may be able to get enough information from it to steal your identity.

    Also, never leave your outgoing bills your mailbox where a thief can find them and get information such as credit card and bank account numbers. This is all the information a thief needs to steal someone’s identity.

    Packing list

    It is a good idea to carry a list of expensive items you have packed in your checked luggage. That way, if the airline loses your bag, you have some record of what has been lost.

    Likewise, you should never pack any irreplaceable items, such as, medicine or jewelry in your checked luggage; make sure you put it in your carry-on bag, or leave it at home for safe keeping.

    Lost? Find your way back…

    When visiting a country where you have little language skills, make sure to have a card with your hotel name and address on it in case you get lost or are trying to give a taxi directions. It’s also wise to make a point of learning a few key phrases, such as, your local address and inquiries as to how to find a cab, telephone, police, etc., which may prove useful in bind. E-mailing important documents

    Before traveling it’s a good idea to photocopy all of your important documents (passport, tickets, etc.); keep a copy with your gear, separate from the originals. For instance, if you lose the bag with your passport, you’ll have a copy of it to bring to the consulate in a separate bag. Give another copy to a friend or family member back home, for safekeeping, in case both the original and your copy get lost. You can also scan them and send them to your e-mail address so if you ever lose your paper copies you can just print more out.

    Don’t attract criminals

    The best way to keep from attracting a thief’s attention is to avoid wearing expensive looking jewelry and having cameras and other pricey items out for all to see. Keep your jewelry covered up or under lock and key at your hotel (most higher-end hotels will have a safe either in the room or at the reception desk). Cameras should be kept out of site as well–either tucked into bag or backpack when not in use, or better yet, strapped around your neck and under your jacket. Smaller point-and-shoot cameras will often fit into a pocket on the inside of your coat.

    Protecting your camera

    Cameras are one of the most common items stolen on a vacation. Most are stolen while in high-crime areas such as city centers or shopping bazaars. Most people on vacation don’t want to be without their cameras, but if you are going to be traveling in high-crime area, or even an area you worry might be high crime, then you may want to bring along a disposable camera instead of an expensive SLR or digital camera. Cheap point-and-shoot cameras are good for this as well, and neither take up much space in a suitcase. Otherwise, be sure to keep your camera out of sight, attached to a strap around your neck, and/or zipped under your jacket, if possible.

    Address on luggage tags

    Traveling abroad means putting you address on your luggage, which in turn means everyone can see where you live and know that you will be gone. More than one robbery has been perpetrated by shady characters lingering around local airports, scoping out the home addresses of people they see taking outgoing flights. The best way to protect against this is to put your business address on a piece of luggage. This will insure that no one who spots your address will be getting the correct one, and that your bags–if lost–will find their way back to a place you can retrieve them. Another idea is to put your local police station’s address label on the label, but this could lead to complications if your bags are lost. And we’d like to hope that your bags are more likely to be lost in transit, than your house being robbed.

  • Gold and Ghosts on Ghana’s Cape Coast

    In the shadow of a 353-year-old fortress, a former trading post for gold, ivory and slaves, a pack of young boys play a game of pick-up soccer. The ball thuds against the tall, whitewashed stone wall that surrounds what was, for the very unfortunate, their last stop on African soil before passage to the harsh reality of the New World.

    Beyond that wall, through the gate and past the thick wooden door, a cracked cobblestone courtyard opens to the sea. Fifteen original canons still guard against pirate attacks, the unused cannonballs having fused together over the centuries.

    Cape Coast CastleCape Coast Castle squats on a rocky cliff that juts out into the Atlantic Ocean on the seacoast of Ghana, West Africa. To the east, the castle looks over the town center, a tangled mix of time-weathered colonial buildings, cinder block homes, and shacks capped by corrugated tin. To the west, large dugout canoes wait on sandy shores for muscular young men to finish repairing the pale green fishing nets.

    The castle was originally founded by the Swedes in 1653, taken by the Danes and then passed to the Dutch, finally becoming a possession of the English in 1662. It served as a base for colonial activity in the country the British called the Gold Coast. A French bombardment leveled the fort in 1757, but it was re-built in grander scale by the Brits, and this is what stands today as a UNESCO World Heritage site.The airy rooms of the top floor were home to the well-heeled residents of the castle. Sunlight still creeps through the shuttered windows of the Governor’s residence, the patterned shadows falling on warped mahogany floors. But the light stops there.

    Below ground level are the clammy, dirt-floor dungeons where slaves were imprisoned. Small slits high in the walls allow a trickle of air into the cells. It’s suffocating for one person, yet hundreds were crammed into these quarters. And there were many such rooms.

    The west coast of Ghana, from the sprawling, bustling capital of Accra to the Cote d’Ivoire border, is home to the densest concentration of European forts and castles on the African continent. Twenty-nine of the original 37 castles are still around, stretched out along the shore like hooks on a fishing line. Some are crumbling, some are well preserved, but all resonate with a difficult and complex history. In between the castles are Fante fishing villages framed by palm trees and turquoise seas.

    The journey from Accra to Cape Coast town, population 300,000 including outlying villages, is about 200 kilometers. Depending on the state of the roads, it can feel longer. The route runs within drumbeat distance of the shore, but unfortunately there are only glimpses of the sea from the windows of the well-traveled, state-owned buses. Transport comes in ordinary and luxury, with the former making up in character what it lacks in comfort.

    Whenever the bus stops, an eclectic grocery store arrives at your window. Hawkers, mostly women with laden baskets balanced on their heads, rush over to sell water, oranges, plantain chips, pineapples, yams, crackers, handkerchiefs and toilet paper. An occasional young man holds up a dead grasscutter, a large, tasty bush rodent that looks like a beaver on a diet. Hands reach up and reach down, and the women run alongside the bus as it picks up speed.

    I arrive in the evening, as the African sun casts a warm hue over this faded colonial centre, the British capital of the Gold Coast until 1876. If you are drawn to the grand narratives of early modern history, Cape Coast is a good read. The stories are written in the castle and the churches, in the old European buildings and the Ghanaian homes, in the food stalls and family shops, and in Ghana’s first university and some of the country’s biggest boarding schools.

    A bit frayed at the edges and looking its age, Cape Coast is nonetheless an energetic town with a solid enough infrastructure. There is a range of hotels and guest houses available, from well-appointed suites costing around $80, to the sparse $8 room I stay in, with its wobbly ceiling fan and a splash not a shower. (The nicest accommodations are just outside of the city core, but a taxi or a tro-tro – a crowded minivan bus, often with a religious slogan on the windshield – can shuttle you to the castle in minutes.)

    I find one of the two restaurants with front-row ocean seats. The full moon is reflected on the crest of the waves as they break for shore, rows of gleaming teeth biting into the sand. I have a Star beer – from Ghana’s first brewery – and a large bowl of groundnut stew, a thick puree of peanuts, spices, and meat of choice, eaten with rice balls, mashed yam, or fermented maize.

    After another Star, I walk back to my guest house, past a lumpy soccer pitch at Victoria Park. An orphaned statue of the old queen stands alone on the sidelines, watching the kids play football in the dark.

    Ghana Soccer KidsThe smell of street food mixes with the scent of kerosene in the humid night air. Music fills the air, street lamps flicker, and shadows emerge from alleys. Young lovers loiter, the women standing seductively, one hip cocked to the side and the glimpse of an arched back contrasting against the colorful African prints. Vendors, cars, bicycles, goats, chickens, frogs creaking from sewer trenches, preachers with growling voices – life spills in all directions.

    After a surprisingly good sleep, I’m at the castle at the opening time of 8:00 am, before other visitors, to better hear the ghosts of the place. From the courtyard, I step down into the dank underground chambers where the slaves were stored – housed being too generous of a word. In one of the rooms, a lone light bulb hangs from a wire, helping to illuminate the past.

    I’m startled by the voice of Kingsley Kofi Yeboah, the long-serving historian and curator of the fort. He gives me a tour of the castle’s museum, which has evocative exhibits on Ghana’s history, slavery, and the lives of Blacks after the diaspora.

    He then takes me to see the tiny ‘condemned cell’, into which captives who revolted were locked, up to 50 at a time. They died of suffocation and starvation, a deterrent to the other prisoners. The walls have scratch marks. “It may not be pleasant history,” says Yeboah, “but it’s the history of all of us, of you and me, and it’s what brought us here today.”

    During the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade, somewhere around 20 million people were kidnapped and transplanted to the Americas, the Caribbean and Europe between the 15th and 19th centuries. The labor of these enslaved Africans became the backbone of lucrative economies in sugar cane, tobacco, cotton, cocoa, rice and coffee.European merchants generally did not travel inland to buy the slaves, but acquired them (three men to each woman) from African middlemen who in turn had bought them from various African slave hunters. The shackled captives were marched hundreds of miles from the countryside to the coast, the mothers carrying babies on their backs.

    At the castles, the prisoners were sorted according to age and sex – families were usually broken up – and bartered for finished European goods including guns and cooking pots. A healthy male in his prime could fetch three rifles.

    The slaves were kept in the dungeons at night, sleeping on straw. During the day, they were allowed in the courtyards, where they fetched water from cisterns and cooked traditional foods such as cassava and yam. They might have stayed at a castle for up to six weeks, waiting for the ships to come in.

    Kingsley shows me the thick, ocean-facing ‘door of no return’ the slaves were forced through at Cape Coast Castle. Once past that threshold, they were crammed below decks of leaking, stagnant ships, still shackled and packed literally like sardines. Almost one in six died on this ‘middle passage’.

    Ending the Atlantic Slave Trade was a long, labored process of changing economic fortunes and rising humanitarian concerns. Britain abolished its slave trade in 1807, France in 1815 and Spain in 1820. However, the trade continued with declining numbers throughout most of the 19th century in places like Cuba and Brazil, until slavery was finally outlawed everywhere in the Americas.

    “I don’t want people to come here and just get angry or just feel guilty,” says Yeboah. “We must learn from history, but I think these castles can now show us a way forward, how different people can get beyond the past and figure out how to exist together.”

    As I leave the castle, a group of young boys kicking a soccer ball against the stone wall invite the obroni – the white man – to join in. I try to keep up, but I’m no match for their youthful energy and endurance. Showing typical Ghanaian generosity, they cheer me on anyway, as we chase each other in the shadow of history.

  • Egypt in 10 days or Less

    Egypt in 10 days or Less

    I dreamed of visiting Egypt since I was an elementary school child learning about pharaohs and pyramids for the first time. I finally got my wish in March 2007 as I stepped out of the terminal at the Cairo International Airport to begin a whirlwind tour of the country in less then 10 days.

    Arriving in Cairo

    Arriving at Cairo’s international airport can be a challenge if you arrive unprepared as I did. As you pass through the terminal to immigration there are no signs or instructions of what to do. If you are in need of a visa it would greatly ease your arrival to know that you need to purchase one from the bank kiosks that line the arrival terminal before you get to the immigration lines. The terminal will be filled with people waiting for immigration and the chaos of travel group expeditor’s attempting to find their charges and speed them through the visa process. Patience is definitely a virtue in this situation.

    Upon leaving the terminal I was confronted with a teeming throng of humanity outside. Hundreds of “taxi” drivers wait to persuade the weary traveller to accept their offer for a ride to the hotel and there is no official taxi stand in sight. Likely best to have the hotel arrange transfer from the airport or be prepared to bargain.

    Giza and the Horse She Rode In On

    Horses Having BreakfastFriends who had traveled to Egypt previously had warned me not to spend too much time in Cairo. This was the best advice I received in advance of my trip. Although the city is huge and sprawling – it is possible to see everything you want to see in a day and a half. We spent 2 nights and 2 days there.

    The highlight of the visit to Cairo is the short journey from the downtown hotels to the pyramids at Giza. It is amazing to note how these hulking monuments of ancient history stand against the modern Cairo skyline like some sort of surreal spaceships on the landscape.

    My trip to Giza brought with it lesson number two for any traveler’s trip to Egypt – beware of the traveler tout. While waiting for me to arrive the previous evening my traveling companion had arranged for a driver to take me around the city and out to Giza the following day. This gesture was well appreciated as we were short on time and I had a lot I wanted to see. Unfortunately I made one big mistake – I did not have a firm idea of what I wanted to do or in what order.

    Overall the day went well – my driver was friendly and relatively safe in the crazy Cairo traffic. His English was passable and we managed to speak throughout the day on a variety of topics. However, the day began badly in Giza. Eager to see the great pyramids – I asked to go there first. As we approached the area of the pyramids the driver asked me if I wanted a camel, a horse, or a horse and carriage. Knowing the camel trick from friends who had been taken on short rides for exorbitant prices, I immediately said no to that quite firmly and asked if we could walk to the site and explore. The driver indicated it was hot in the desert and this might not be the best idea – which should have been my first tip off as it was not warm at all that morning. Suddenly we were on back streets near the pyramids with horse stables run out of shop fronts all around us.

    Although I indicated I was not interested in the horses I was not firm enough. Try Try Try… was the call of the shopkeeper of the stable that we stopped at. Before I knew it I was on a horse and caught. Needless to say I found myself paying an exorbitant price for an hour on a dirty horse in the desert and my pyramid experience was ruined. I could see the tour groups circling the great monuments from my horse in the desert. I still had the experience of seeing them – but could not get close enough to really have the experience I was looking for. That said – I learned my lesson about the tourist tout in Egypt. Know what you want, Be firm, ask the price first, agree on the price, again be firm, say NO when things begin moving outside the area of agreement. Final bit of advice to wary travelers – arrange a tour of Cairo and Giza through your hotel or with a guide recommended by your guidebook. Save the hassle and your pocketbook.

    Dust to dust… mummies and more

    I had been told time and time again that the Egyptian museum is a must-see in Egypt. This is agreed for serious history buffs and those who want to see the mummy collection featured by the museum. However, for those simply curious the museum is a maze of dusty relics which have little to no illustrative information available about them. We chose to guide ourselves through using our guidebook rather than to pay one of the eager Egyptologists outside jockeying to give us a tour. It was the right decision. We saw everything we wanted to see in the museum – including the gruesome mummy collection – in a morning. We were greatly aided by the fact that the crowds were unusually light during the day we chose to visit – but still we felt satisfied by our self-guided tour.

    Man made wonders of Egypt

    Luxor Small PyramidsAfter a short flight to Aswan on the afternoon of the second full day in Egypt, we entered our planes, trains, and automobiles phase of the trip. Aswan features one of the wonders of the modern world – the Aswan High Dam – which is credited with controlling the mighty Nile River and also the site of major cold war tension when the Russians stepped in to fund and provide technical expertise for the dam after Nasser’s independent politics alienated him from the west.

    While the unimpressive dam gets all the credit in Aswan – the town is actually quite lovely and the site of one of the best ancient sites in Egypt – the Temple of Philae. Philae can be reached only by boat – making it a bit of a hassle… but well worth the effort as the views of the ancient temple against the colorful Nile landscape is amazing.

    We traveled to Aswan for the purpose of making the 3 hour journey south to the famed temples at Abu Simbol. After a number of issues hiring a minibus to take us on the 6 hour round-trip journey and a sleepless night in a hotel full of Egyptian schoolchildren likely on their first trip away from home – we found our chariot awaiting us at 4am for the long journey south.

    Some might say that the trip to Abu Simbol is not worth the 6 hours in a car and a sleepless night – but they would be wrong. A nap on the bus is worth it to wake up in this magnificent place on the shores of Lake Nasser. The temple was “saved” from the rising waters of the lake formed by the high dam by UNESCO. Cut from the cliff it previously occupied – King Ramses’s foreboding welcome to those traveling south on the Nile is impressive even in its current resting place – a fake mountainside just up the cliff from its original location – is a bit strange.

    Luxor Means Luxury

    After our marathon trip to Aswan and Abu Simbol the team was ready for some serious R and R. As we boarded a dirty train for the 4 hour trip north to Luxor – we had high hopes that the familiar surroundings of the Sheraton Hotel there would be just the ticket. We were not disappointed. The hotel – surrounded by lush gardens and set directly on the banks of the Nile – was just what the doctor ordered. We sank into a world of Sheraton burgers and guided tours.

    our arrangements in Luxor are divided into east and west bank excursions. The Temple at Karnak is the feature of the east bank tour. Karnak is an amazing, sprawling ancient temple complex that will inspire anyone interested in seeing, touching and wandering through history. The temple at Luxor is fascinating as well – if for no other reason that the mosque built on one side of it gives you an idea of how deep in the sands the ancient monuments were before they were dug out and restored.

    Although for both west bank sites we had an excellent guide – we felt that we could have done the east bank trip to both Karnak and Luxor temples on our own with a guidebook and a taxi. We would have also likely put some time to wander around the souk and other areas of the Luxor city center – which has a lovely walk along the river as well as shopping and restaurants that were recommended but we did not explore.

    The west bank was something different though. In this case we felt as though our time and money was well spent with our excellent guide – Gad. Although Gad had a bit of an Egyptian mafia-cool attitude going – he knew his stuff and loved his history. Talking about centuries gone kings and their tombs in the Valley of the Kings the listener could not help but get caught in his pride and excitement.

    The Valleys of the Kings and Queens, as well as the Hatsheput Temple in Thebes on the west bank of the Nile are the jewels of Egypt’s tourism crown. Each tomb is below ground – but not as far as one might imagine. We were surprised by this and asked Gad why the tombs lay “undiscovered” for so long. We were immediately informed that the tombs were not “discovered”. Western archeologists may have been making “discoveries” for themselves – but the local people always knew the general location of the ancient sites.

    In general, the magnificent and bright colors of the Goddess Nut stretched over the massive limestone tomb of King Ramses IV and the other sites of the Valley of the Kings is well worth the trip. Unfortunately the closure of Queen Nefertari’s tomb makes the Valley of the Queens a bit disappointing. The stop at the overpriced Alabaster factory also was not a highlight – but interesting and without too many sales hassles.


    The Homestretch

    Continuing our theme of interesting travel options in Egypt we decided to take an afternoon bus from Luxor to Hurghada on the Red Sea Coast. Luckily at this point we had learned the lesson of being firm and sticking to your plan, because despite our research of bus options we were repeatedly lied to and discouraged in our plan by our Luxor tour agent, the hotel staff, and the taxi we hired to go to the bus station. Everyone advised and nearly forced us to take a hired car as part of the official convoy trip between the two cities. Our guidebook indicated this was unnecessary and it was.

    The convoy system was developed by the Egyptian government following a series of terrorist attacks on tourists in the mid-1990s. Like everything connected to tourism in Egypt the system has become a method for tour operators and everyone else connected to them to siphon money off the unsuspecting tourist and worse yet it plays on a fear for one’s security – which is not helpful to increasing the reach of the tourist dollar in the country. Although there are some areas where security is a concern – guidebooks are clear on where these areas are. The savvy visitor does not need the Egyptian tourism police and their lazy ways to nanny you through your visit to this fascinating country if you are interested in traveling on your own.

    Thus – after a 5 hour bus ride along the fertile Nile and the deserts leading to the coast – we arrived in Hurghada and then were whisked to our luxury Sheraton Miramar resort in El Gouna via private car arranged by the hotel. We arrived in the Disney-like resort designed by American Architect Michael Graves and enveloped ourselves in three lazy days by the pool and swimming in the Red Sea.

    Although we did not see much of the coast in and around Hurghada on our arrival – but we made a subsequent trip into town later during our stay. Hurghada is a development disaster. Although the sea coast here is lovely – development of it has proceeded unchecked and one can barely reach the beach through the maze of half-finished concrete buildings. The town caters to eastern European and Russian holiday makers looking for a bargain – as well as students backpacking through Egypt. Thus it is full of cheap eats, t-shirt shops, and cafes with beer for a decent price. Needless to say we were happy that we ended up in our Arabian Disney resort in El Gouna – although the Sheraton Miramar was certainly more Orlando than Cairo.

    Concluding thoughts

    When I first considered a trip to Egypt as part of my holiday break plans from my work in Kabul, Afghanistan, I was inspired by my own interests in the country – both historical and architectural. However, I was surprised how negative the reaction of friends and colleagues was to my plans.

    Some people were concerned about my security traveling in the country and others were concerned about how relaxing the experience would be based on their own experiences addressing the hassles of tourist touts and constant sales techniques directed at visitors to Egypt. On the first point – I found Egypt surprisingly safe, clean, and friendly. Witness the hordes of fellow travelers I encountered everywhere I went and clearly I am not alone. However, I did find the enormous police presence everywhere in the country which rather than making me feel safe contributed to a feeling of oppression. I was particularly annoyed in Cairo to find that the tourist police at every site in the city would not let my driver into most of the sites or demanded he pay a bribe to accompany me inside. Based on the comments many of the Egyptians I met made about their government – the prominence of the police and the cult of Mubarek’s personality is not doing much to improve the state of life in this colorful and wonderfully unique country.

    Overall I found my travels in Egypt to be better than anything I could have expected. Although I found myself learning to not make eye contact or respond to constant cries of “what country?” from every taxi driver, store keeper, and street urchin for fear of being trapped in a hard sell – I enjoyed my travels immensely. I found it surprisingly easy to get around. Trains and buses were cheap and on time – although a bit dirty and slow. Egypt Air was relatively cheap and would be an easy way to get around to various destinations. Best of all tickets can be booked online – although prices go up steeply within a week of travel and planes are notoriously delayed. I did have a few bad experiences – particularly the horse trick in Giza – and got tired of constantly haggling with people over prices – but nothing outshone the positive nature of the experience. I would highly recommend traveling to Egypt to anyone and the country is a place I hope to return to.

  • Place of Wonder: Santa Elena Cloud Forest in Costa Rica

    Santa Elena Cloud ForestThey’re still out there – some near, most far, all wide-open places waiting to expand your horizon. One of these places is the Santa Elena Cloud Forest in Costa Rica where a dense shroud of mist blankets the tight canopy. Golden flecks of sun penetrate the leafy ceiling and dapple the forest floor. Succulent epiphytic plants cling to soggy branches, absorbing drops of moisture from the air. A sparkling violet sabrewing buzzes past, stopping momentarily to scrutinize strange new visitors who have entered his enigmatic realm. A dung beetle busily drives a spherical gift for a female. A three-wattled bellbird bonks on a high branch to attract a mate.

    You are in a forest where clouds meander quietly through the understory. Visibility is about a hundred feet. All is quiet. Suddenly, from above, you hear two deep, smooth melancholy notes. The first note rises slightly and the second descends. As you begin to examine the interlaced branches above, the melody repeats. Then abruptly you see a blur of scarlet and green streak across your field of vision landing on a branch only twenty feet away. The clouds drift past and you’re dazzled by a brilliant emerald gleam of an adult male Quetzal. From the top of its Mohawk-like crest, through its metallic green plumage surrounding a crimson red breast, and its long green and a white tail, there is three feet of this incredible bird perching before you.

    Male and Female QuetzalThe Resplendent Quetzal, it is one of nature’s ornate creatures and its home for most of the year is highland cloud forests. What commonly is called the “tail” is actually a pair of two foot long feathers known as tail coverts. In flight this elegant train of glistening emerald shimmers and sways much like the long ribbons of rhythmic gymnasts. The male flaunts these feathers during the mating season in a spectacular display flight in which it flies 150 feet upwards and comes swooping down in a graceful arc.

    The Quetzal was revered by Mayans, but only royalty was permitted to wear its feathers. Mayan kings wore headdresses of dozens of the long feathers with their stunning iridescence. Montezuma, the Aztec supreme ruler, wore a cloak of over seven hundred magnificent Quetzal plumes.

    Will the Resplendent Quetzal continue to survive for at least another two hundred centuries so our great-, great-, great-grandchildren can continue to admire this glorious bird in the Santa Elena Cloud Forest, like their ancestors?

    Only time can tell…

    How to Get There
    From San Jose take the Interamerican Highway north to Puntareas. Go another 12 miles (20 km) to the turnoff for Sandinal. The road is paved for a few miles but then be prepared for a bumpy drive. Thirty-nine spine jarring kilometers later you arrive in Santa Elena and then it’s a short 3 km to the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Preserve.

    Where to Stay
    The Hotel Belmar is a beautiful Swiss chalet-style hotel (www.hotelbelmar.net) on the grounds of which I saw plenty of wildlife and heard the three wattled bellbird during my stay. The cost was $80 per night for a double. If you are looking for an inexpensive place to stay try The Arco Iris Lodge in Santa Elena. A regular room with bath is only $50 per night, and budget travelers can stay in the “Bunk Rooms” for just $18 for a single or $28 for a double. With over 40 hotels in the area, one can always find a room for the night!

    Where to Eat
    The Morpho’s Café, in Santa Elena offers good, hearty, economical meals, with so much food on the plate you can’t eat it all.

  • El Salvador’s marketplace children

    The Lonely Planet describes El Salvador as ‘a country of beautiful beaches, dramatic scenery, and friendly people.’While this is no doubt true, El Salvador is also marred with poverty and suffering. Child labor is prevalent, as many young children Volunteerneed to go to work in order to survive, and often provide for their families.

    Ever wondered where the tasty sugar of your can of Coca Cola comes from? Odds are it is from an El Salvadorian sugarcane mill, which openly uses child labor. Children as young as eight work for up to eight hours a day in hot sun, cutting sugar cane with huge machetes. It is dangerous work, and injuries, sometimes life threatening, are all too common. Other children labor in sweatshops making garments for western countries, children climb landfills in order to collect recycling to sell, and young girls risk physical and sexual abuse by working in the domestic sector.

    Perhaps the most visible of child labor in El Salvador, is children working in the marketplace. The kids can be seen selling goods and services in the streets, and in local markets, some as young as four and five. This work often includes running in and out of traffic, backbreaking work carrying goods, and working in the extreme heat. Education is expensive, and many poverty-stricken families cannot afford to send their children to school. Children instead spend hours working, their childhood stripped from them, in order to survive.

    By volunteering through the Global Volunteer Network, Lauren McElroy of Washington, U.S was able to visit El Salvador to see first hand how these people live, and to work for a program that helps to give the children a break from that environment.

    Teaching‘One of my friends had gone to El Salvador the year before, and she said what an amazing experience she’d had, and that she was going back again’ says Lauren, reflecting on her 5 weeks spent volunteering.

    ‘I was just getting back into Spanish, so I was able to go. I knew that I could actually be able to talk to the kids, and I felt like that would make more of a difference.’

    Lauren volunteered with a program called ‘Angeles Descalzos’ which means ‘fallen angels’. The program is for kids who work in the marketplace, many whom are unable to afford to go to school, and provides them with the chance to learn and play.

    ‘We had a morning and an afternoon session. I taught some English, because a lot of the kids didn’t go to school, and English is something that really they can only learn in school. It’s really useful, for them, because there’s a lot more opportunities if you know English, both educational, and job opportunities.’

    Angeles DescalzosThe children come to the program part time, when they are not working, and are able to come to this program free of charge, thanks to the support of volunteers.

    The program enables the marketplace children to take some time out, and provides an environment where they can be themselves and enjoy their youth, as many of the children that Lauren met had been working as long as they could remember.

    ‘My friend Lisa who came with me is a Theatre Major, so we did Drama, which is really fun, just to try to get the kids to be a bit more creative and have fun. They don’t have board games and store-bought toys like in developed countries. They are not really encouraged to be creative, and to just play.’

    The Civil War in El Salvador which raged for over a decade, ended in 1992 and left around 70,000 people dead, causing over two billion dollars in damages. This put a huge strain on the already struggling economy, and left thousands of men, women and children alike maimed, injured and emotionally scarred. Although the war officially ended in 1992, it still has a massive impact on the day to day life of El Salvador’s people. Many are still left suffering, coming to terms with war related injuries and illness.

    Lauren stayed with a host family, and was able to see first hand the impact of the war on everyday families in El Salvador.

    ‘Their dad had been in the war, and he had been injured, and had just started to work again in a sweatshop in San Salvador, which is about a three hour bus ride from Santa Ana where he lived. He would go there every week, and he would have basically day long shifts, up to 24 hours, so he would stay there overnight and come back on weekends. It was amazing to see the sacrifice that he made for his family, and hear about his experiences fighting in the war and being injured, then recovering, and trying to get back into the workforce.’

    Staying with a host family also provides them with a valuable extra income. Lauren’s host family could then afford to send two of their children to school. One has also recently been able to attend University, thanks to the extra income provided by hosting volunteers.

    ‘They had four daughters, two of whom were disabled. Basically they couldn’t stand up, and they couldn’t talk. They were bedridden because they had been born with these birth defects’. ‘Just to see the mom, Leila, taking care of these girls, who were twelve and fourteen when I was there. They were grown girls, but she had to stay in the house with them all the time. To see her dedication to them, and the way the whole family just embraced them, and treated them. The whole story of the host family was amazing. They were so inspirational, just incredible.’

    Volunteering in El Salvador also brought Lauren the obvious challenges, such as the language barriers, but these were quickly overcome. Other challenges were not so obvious. Learning about kids lives which are so different from our own childhoods can be heartbreaking.

    ‘When the kids are telling you their stories, you just want to be able to change everything. I was only there for five weeks, and you can’t change everything. Just knowing that you were going to leave, and they are going to stay there and still be having the same life, I think that was really hard, and one of the biggest challenges. To do what you can, and accept the fact that things aren’t going to change overnight. You have to just let that be, and do what you can while you are there.’

    The program, which receives very little government funding, relies on volunteers, mainly from foreign countries, to teach the classes and maintain the program. If it wasn’t for volunteers like Lauren, programs like ‘Angeles Descalzos’ would not be able to stay running.

    ‘Just the fact that they were able to come to this program, not be out in the market working, have some education, have some fun, some time to play, and have a glimpse into an outside world. They asked us ‘oh, what’s it like in the United States’, and about our lives. A lot of these kids have never even left Santa Ana, the city we were in, so even that I think was really valuable for them.’

    By volunteering, Lauren was able to really develop friendships with these children, which is a totally unique element of traveling in a third world country.

    ‘One weekend we went to the market that a lot of these kids worked at, and we saw one of the girls with the basket on her head of the fruit, one of the girls from the project that we knew. We kind of waved at her and said hi, as she was just walking by.’

    Logo‘When you picture a country like that when you go there, you see these kids out there selling things, but you don’t really have a personal relationship with them, so it just gave an incredibly different face and a different perspective on child poverty and child labor. It was really different when you knew the kid, and knew about their daily life, and had a relationship with them, rather than when it was just some faceless kid trying to sell you something. I have much more compassion, and respect, and understanding of their lives, and what that’s like.’

    GVN has several programs in El Salvador, including teaching English to children from the marketplace, or children who collect rubbish at landfills for recycling. There are also community maintenance programs, and the opportunity to work in an orphanage desperate for help.

    If you are interested in volunteering in El Salvador, visit www.volunteer.org.nz.

  • Turkey

    Turkey FlagTurkey is truly the meeting place of Europe and the Middle East. Although, generally, Turkey is considered a middle eastern country, its main hub Istanbul has a European feel with old world charm. This bustling city is a doorway into a country that has two distinct sides.

    Turkey is rapidly entering the modern world, and may very soon be part of the European Union. This will take the country into a new phase and could open its doors even wider to tourism and economic growth. Turkey is a wonderful place to visit–whether walking through the old city of Istanbul or strolling down the ancient streets of Ephesus, you begin to understand what an important crossroads Turkey has been throughout history.

    Turkey Information
    Turkey MapPopulation: 65.7 million
    Government: Federal Republic
    Square Miles: 483,260 sq mi (779,452 sq km)
    Capitol: Ankara (pop 3.7 million)
    Official Language: Turkish
    People: Turks (85%), Kurds (12%), other Islamic peoples, Armenians, Jews
    Religion: Muslim
    Major products/industries: Agriculture, motor vehicles, petroleum, engineering, tourism

    Traveling in Turkey
    Turkish airlines can fly you to most all Turkish cities, but there are other cheaper ways to move around Turkey. Turkish buses are good way to travel through the country–they are cheap, comfortable, and they go everywhere. Trains are a good value if you plan on traveling long distances overnight, if you can get a sleeping compartment, but they don’t travel as frequently or cheaply as buses. If you plan are driving, make sure you have plenty of insurance and nerves of steel. Turkish drivers are famous for their speed and aggressiveness, so driving is not recommended. Taxis are recommended over driving, but if you do happen to be driving and want to avoid getting behind the wheel more than you have to, there are automobile ferries that can bring you down the coast during the summer.

    Weather in Turkey
    Turkey is a great place to travel in the “shoulder” seasons of spring and fall, when the weather along the coast is best. In the summer the weather can be uncomfortably hot and in the winter the coastal areas are essential closed.

    Turkish CuisineTurkey
    Most places in Turkey you’ll find cuisine not unlike that in the United States. Chicken and lamb seem to be on all menus, often heavily tenderized and breaded. Entrees don’t tend to have heavy sauces on them, but that doesn’t mean they don’t have a lot of taste. Most meats or poultry in Turkey are prepared with a lot of spices, which gives the food some flare. On the whole, restaurant meals are reasonably priced, and if you plan on eating out in Istanbul, finding a good inexpensive meal usually means little more than walking down the block from your hotel (hotel restaurants are typically overpriced and less representative of true local cuisine).

    What to Know
    TurkeyThere is a lot to see and do in Turkey and it is best to research where you would like to go beforehand. It is a large country and seeing what you want in one visit may not be possible, but making sure you get to see Istanbul as well as some of the famous historical sites like Esphesus or Troy should be high on the list.

  • Mexico

    Mexico FlagCross the Rio Grande heading south and you’ll enter the United States’ southern neighbor Mexico. Mexico is a land of many contrasts, from the northern desert to the rainforests of Chiapas, and everything in between. This is a country filled with history and culture–one look at the Mayan ruins is testament to that–but it is also rife with isolated beaches, towering volcanoes, and glitzy resorts in places like Acapulco and Cancun. Whatever your passion, you’ll likely find it in Mexico.

    Mexico City is one of the largest urban areas in the world (behind Tokyo and New York), and among the most congested. If ever there was a metropolis that represented the melding of ancient and modern, Mexico City is that place: remnants of colonial Mexico share space with soaring skyscrapers; the Plaza de la Constitución–the city’s historical center–is paved with stones looted from the ancient Aztec city of Tenochtitlán. Mexico City is situated directly on top of that ransacked Aztec capital, which itself was built on an island in a now reclaimed lake. This means that much of modern Mexico City is slowly sinking into the landfill and swamp on which it stands.

    The Baja Peninsula is characterized by its beautiful beaches, serene harbors, and often dramatic shoreline. Throughout history, Baja epitomized the notion of the “Old West,” harboring mercenaries and outlaws. But modern Baja has become a tourist destination for whale watchers, kayakers, sailors, and more. Some historical interests include Loreto, with its Spanish mission history and offshore national park; and Sierra de San Francisco’s pre-Columbian rock art. La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur, known for its outstanding beaches, and Sierra de la Laguna is an ecologist’s and hiker’s paradise.

    The Yucatán Peninsula is a diverse collection of archaeological sites, colonial cities, tropical rainforest, seaside activities, and energetic nightlife. The region’s Mayan ruins include Uxmal and Chichén Itzá. Tourists flock to the white-sand Caribbean beaches at Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, and Cancún.

    Traveling in Mexico
    Mexico MapCitizens of most countries don’t require visas to enter Mexico as tourists. However, if you plan to stay longer than 72 hours, or are traveling to certain exempted areas, you must obtain a 180-day Mexican government tourist card (tarjeta de turista), available from embassies or at border crossings for a fee.

    Because of its size flying is still one of the best ways to get around Mexico. Most flights are reasonably priced, and the alternative of taking a bus can be an uncomfortable ride. If you are going to fly around the country, make sure to check the timetables for your flights as many of the airlines are small carriers that change their schedules often.

    Buses are another option in Mexico; the system is extensive, but the rides can vary. Some buses are nicely air-conditioned and comfortable, while others are not. If you don’t get a “modern” bus you could be in for a long uncomfortable ride. Fortunally most of the major routes have newer facilities.

    You can rent a car, but it is wise to know some Spanish and have a lot of patience if you do plan on driving yourself.

    On a note of warning, the massive influx of tourism has introduced some bad elements to Mexico. Crime has risen to critical levels. Rarely a year goes by when you don’t hear about some terrible crime inflicted upon tourists in Mexico. This doesn’t tell the whole story as petty crimes like pickpocketing are common, but so are rape and assault. Robbery seems to be the worst, and there are few places you can go where you don’t have to be cautious: taxis robberies, muggings at ATM machines, and purse snatching are all prevalent. There are also reports of credit card fraud and armed robberies. Most of these are reported in or around Mexico City, but if you are traveling throughout the country, it’s best to stay near the main tourist routes.

    Weather in Mexico
    Because of its location, Mexico is a nice place to visit year-round. The most pleasant time to visit is between October and May. From May to September tends to be hot and humid, especially in the south, while December through February is much colder inland.

    Mexico Information
    North / Central AmericaPopulation: 100,400,000
    Government: Federal republic
    Square Miles: 758,866 sq mi (1,958,200 sq km)
    Capitol: Mexico City (pop 22 million)
    Official Languages: Spanish and indigenous languages
    People: 60% mestizo (mixed European and Amerindian descent) and 30% Amerindian (indígena – including Nahua, Maya, Zapotecs, Mixtecs, Totonacs, and Tarascos or Purépecha)
    Religion: 90% Roman Catholic, 6% Protestant
    Major products/industries: Food and beverages, tobacco, chemicals, iron and steel, petroleum, mining, textiles, clothing, motor vehicles, consumer durables, tourism

  • India

    Indian FlagSince 2500 B.C., the cultures that grew into the modern state of India have been involved in a wild dance of religion and politics that make the India of today one of the most colorful, culturally rich, hyperintense, and interesting places in the world. The culture, politics, and economic effects can run to such extremes, in fact, that tourists have often been divided in to “love” and “hate” groups when it comes to appreciating all India has to offer, in relation to the trials one must at times undergo to enjoy it.

    The history of the region that is now India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and Nepal has evolved based in large part on the tides of religious belief. Founded in the Indus River valley on the roots of Hinduism, the millenia that followed saw the rise of Buddhism, and Islam as prominent and politically charged practices. This, coupled with the forced influence of colonizing groups such as the early Aryans and, later, the Portuguese, French, Dutch, and English; as well as the great size of India and its multitude of people, makes this country on of the most interesting from a social standpoint. The cities are crowded and bustling while the countryside may at times seem spare. The economic divide is garish and unashamed, and, while no longer sanctioned by the government, the age-old caste system is still very much in place.

    But these elements only make up part of the social fabric of India. Since the Partition of Hindu India and Muslim Pakistan in the 1940s, heated political tensions–and the occasional nuclear standoff–between these two countries over rights to the region of Kashmir have had a global effect. Further Hindu-Islam conflicts have flared up in other regions within India. The west plays an increasing role in Indian culture, from the tremendous British influence, which was responsible for building everything from an internal transportation system to a strong academic program; to America and its media and fashion obsession; and the former Soviet Union with its power and influence in that region (particularly before its fall). All of these things come together at times to feel counterpoised, and at time chaotic.

    Traveling in India
    India MapInternational flights to India typically go to Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai, and Kerala. If coming from Europe or beyond, it’s a good idea to have your accommodations organized in advance, as these flights tend to arrive in the predawn hours. This way you can go straight to your hotel or otherwise, rather than wandering the streets until sunrise.

    Overland, the most traveled routes between India and Nepal are the Birganj-Raxaul Bazaar, Sunauli-Bhairawa, and Kakarbhitta-Siliguri roads. The only crossing between India and Pakistan is between Lahore and Amritsar, which is accessible by train or road. Bus service runs between Lahore and Delhi, operating four times a week, but be cautious as it could be a potential target for nationalist violence.

    The state-run domestic Indian Airlines flies throughout the country, as does the international carrier Air India. There is also a glut of smaller domestic airlines, including Sahara Indian Airlines and Jet Airways, that will take you throughout India.

    The infamous Indian train travel can be a colossal ordeal, but is also essential if you want to see the “real” India. Knowing the rules of the game is important if you’re going to survive what could otherwise be a nightmarish experience. Stick to the express or mail trains, but experiment on all the different classes of travel to see every side of the culture. Patience is the key in all aspects of the train system, from booking fares to just about any other aspect of transportation beaurocracy. It can be frustrating to the uninitiated, but keep it together and you’ll find the confusing methods that make up the Indian rails actually add up to a working system.

    Buses provide another option (or, in the cases of getting to Kashmir or Nepal, maybe the only option). They range in price and comfort depending on where you are, how busy your route is, whether you use a state-run line or a private carrier, and more. The less expesive lines tend to be overcrowded, loud, and uncomfortable; some of the pricier lines may provide some relief from that and will often get you where you’re going faster than the trains.

    Weather in India
    It bears repeating: India is a huge country. There are microclimates throughout India, and like any nation of its size, the best times of year to visit–climatologically speaking–vary depending on where you want to go. October to March tends to be the most pleasant period across the bulk of India, but monsoons, deserts, Alpine mountains, and more mean dramatic differences between localized areas. Before you go, check up on the climate of your specific destination and keep it in mind as you plan your itinerary.

    Republic of India Information
    Population: 1,014,003,817
    Government: Federal Republic
    Area: 1,229,737 sq mi (3,287,590 sq km)
    Capitol: New Delhi
    Official Language: Hindi
    People: 72% Indo-Aryan, 25% Dravidian, 3% other
    Religion: 80% Hindu, 14% Muslim, 2.4% Christian, 2% Sikh, 0.7% Buddhist, 0.5% Jains, 0.4% other
    Major products/industries: Textiles, chemicals, food processing, steel, transportation equipment, cement, mining, petroleum, machinery, agriculture, livestock

  • Noosa Heads – Australia’s Secret Hideaway

    Australia MapNoosa Heads is a cosmopolitan coastal town on the southern shore of Luguna Bay, located on the Northern end of Queensland’s Sunshine Coast approximately one hour’s drive north of Brisbane. It is a vacationer’s paradise for all ages and all lifestyles; beautiful sandy beaches, turquoise blue water, parks, designer boutiques, art shops and surf shops, there is definitely something for everyone, of every age.

    Noosa Heads Public TrailMy husband and I rented a beachfront, one bedroom apartment on the second floor of a three level apartment building. The apartment was very clean, bright, spacious and very well equipped, it was like being at home, we even had a laundry room just down the hall. We had a fabulous, unobstructed view of the ocean from our large shaded deck, and easy beach access through a public walkway on the front street. Noosa Heads offers a complete range of accommodations from the luxury beachfront suites to backpacker’s hostels and for the truly adventurous vacationers, why not rent a houseboat.

    We were unpacked and looking for a grocery store in no time. We were so excited about exploring this beautiful area but first we needed to take care of the necessary tasks – buying groceries. There were several food stores to choose from just down the street. Australian dollars (AUD) are used in Noosa Heads; either exchange your money at the local Bank or use one of the many ATM’s available in the town. The only thing left to do was to enjoy our four night/five day stay.

    Noosa Heads BeachThere was no end to the activities that would keep us occupied during the day that is if we wanted something to do. We could take a walk through Noosa National Park, easy to find, we just followed the signs to the walkway. The view of the ocean and surrounding areas were spectacular; the walking trails were easy walking, it wasn’t necessary to be experienced hikers. We stopped along the path and listened to the birds singing in the trees, examined the different plants and wild flowers growing under the shade of the trees, and took many pictures.

    We took a walk over Noosa Hill to Noosaville on the Noosa River. We will never forget our walk the second morning of our stay. The trail to Noosa Hill was very well marked so we had no problem finding our way; there was a nice walkway through the wooded area so walking was very easy and it didn’t involve much climbing. Because the pathway only allowed for walking single file, but that only increased the sense of being closer to the surroundings. The birds were singing and the air smelled spicy and almost medicinal from the Tea Trees, Australia’s natural healing wonder – Tea Tree Oil.

    Noosa Heads Tea TreesSuddenly we slowed our pace and over my husband’s shoulder he said “Look at the lizard”; now, I’m not a fan of lizards, but my curiosity told me that I needed to see what he was talking about. He took a step sideways off the path and there standing only a few yards away was large green lizard. The lizard was about five feet long from its nose to its tail, and while staring at us, it kept sticking out its long, skinny tongue. To me, it looked 8 feet long and it was probably going to eat us! The lizard animal walked off into the bush, minding its own business, and I was much relieved.

    I would have stood in that very spot for the remainder of the day except the thought of the lizard coming back convinced me I should keep moving. Once I could actually make my legs work I ran until I was out of the wooded area, continually checking over my shoulder to make sure we didn’t have company following us.

    Noosaville is a small but busy community. It offers vacation accommodations, several restaurants, boutique shopping, grocery stores, and two small shopping centers. We walked into the first store we came to, a Drug Store. I went directly to the first clerk I saw and told her about this huge lizard like creature we had just encountered, the size of which was growing each time I thought about it. Did she know that such a creature was lurking in the woods right next to their store? She smiled at me and said “Actually that’s Noosaville’s Pet Iguana, he’s been around for years and he won’t hurt you unless you threaten him”. In true Australian fashion she shrugged it off like it was nothing.

    If you enjoy water sports, there were many to choose from, or if you just wanted to soak up the sun, with a cool drink and a good book, the beaches were clean and just waiting for you to enjoy.

    Even though we had stocked the cupboards of our apartment with groceries, it is always fun to sample the local cuisine. There were many restaurants in Noosa Heads to choose from, be sure to treat yourself; they use fresh, locally grown tropical fruits, spices, ginger and sugarcane in their menus along with many fresh seafood selections. Don’t forget to bring your own bottle of wine, its quite acceptable.

    This was a perfect holiday escape and we would definitely recommend it as a “must visit” destination.

    If you go, take your Passport and Visitor’s Visa, fly into Brisbane and buy a ticket on an Australian Greyhound Bus; the bus will conveniently drop you off in the middle of town. Check in at the Tourist Information Booth or ask anyone on the street for directions to your accommodations. Renting a car in Brisbane is another option but since they drive on the left hand side of the road, why be stressed out when you arrive, let someone else do the driving and just enjoy your vacation.