Category: Travel

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  • Traveler Profile–Nancy Collins: Global Adrenaline

    Nancy CollinsAs part of our effort to bring you essential stories and information on travel and culture, Travel Outward presents you with our first ever “Traveler Profile,” where we will examine the lives of individuals making a name for themselves in adventure travel, education, and the cultural experience. For this inaugural piece we introduce you to Nancy Collins, co-founder and president of the adventure travel company Global Adrenaline. In the coming months, we hope to offer more material from the logbooks of Global Adrenaline, including feature articles based on the adventures they bring you.The word “overachiever” comes to mind, as I examine her resume. Her education alone is impressive, if not intimidating–she graduated with honors from Princeton University with a degree in economics, earned her Master’s of Science in development economics from Oxford University, and an MBA from Harvard, all before turning 32. Then there’s her employment history: five years working in corporate finance between New York and Sydney, Australia, with the investment bank J.P. Morgan; two summers with the International Rescue Committee (IRC) helping to pave the way for that nonprofit refugee relief organization to provide long-term care to people in need; and a year with the World Bank managing funds for much-needed supply of power to countries around the globe. All the while she was seeking action, adventure, friends, knowledge, and more by planning trips for her classmates, coworkers, family, and herself.

    It’s true, this is the resume of a classic overachiever. But to be sure, she’s now doing exactly what she wants. As the president and co-founder of the adventure travel company Global Adrenaline, Nancy Collins is bringing curious people to remote regions of the world that they might never have otherwise considered. And subsequently, she’s helping to foster rich ideas, images, and knowledge of those places and cultures in the minds of a growing population of travelers.

    And what of all the development, business, and economics education she amassed over the years? Well, according to Collins, it’s helping her achieve these goals in the best way she knows how.

    Nancy Collins comes from a military family. Her father was in the U.S. Navy, and she spent her childhood moving around the country, mainly between Southern California and Washington, D.C. She speaks with the clipped pace of someone not used to staying in one place for very long, and while she didn’t get into the “business” of planning trips until the end of her undergraduate years, she acknowledges that her mobile upbringing influenced her as a planner and organizer, as though she’d been doing it all her life.

    “When I went to college,” she says, “I thought I’d be a doctor. Then I thought I wanted to be a math major.” But a few stabs at the complexities of advanced linear algebra quickly changed her mind, and Collins took on economics as her primary area of interest. On the side she started organizing class functions and get-togethers, and after graduating, she followed in the footsteps of so many young people with a background in economics: she went into finance. Over the course of her years working with J.P. Morgan in both New York and Sydney, Collins developed a heartfelt respect for the company that she is quick to voice today. “J.P. Morgan was great,” she says. “If I were to get back into that kind of work, I wouldn’t want it to be with any other company.”

    But in the end, she was drawn back to school. Collins entered a Master’s program in developing economics at Oxford, and followed that with an MBA from Harvard Business School (HBS). She spent the summers between in Macedonia, Kenya, Tanzania, and Burundi with the IRC, and also continued her hobby as a travel and social planner.

    “I’ve always had an interest in developing countries,” she says. Upon completing her program at Harvard, she went to the World Bank in Washington, D.C., as an investment officer helping to fund the construction of power plants in Chile, Argentina, and India. But Collins grew restless. She appreciates the results the World Bank’s labors, but Collins wanted to find a place with less bureaucracy that allowed her more personal freedom and control over the challenges she took on.

    Soon after leaving the World Bank, her career took yet another turn. A group of friends contacted her with a proposition–“They told me about a company they were starting and said they wanted me to be a part of it. They didn’t know what part yet, but knew I would make a good fit.” In their own words, her new partners needed “somebody who can make order out of chaos.” And they were sure Collins could do just that. The company was London-based Altgate Capital–an internet startup that worked closely with the European finance community–and while it was a short-lived endeavor (Altgate has since closed its doors), it opened Collins’ eyes to the potential of being her own boss. Within months of leaving Altgate, she and new two business partners founded the adventure travel company Global Adrenaline. It was an opportunity to combine her interests in developing world cultures, her talents as a travel and events organizer, and her desire for more autonomy in her working life.

    At Global Adrenaline, the business is about “planning trips for young, educated professional people,” Collins says. “There aren’t many companies that focus on that market alone.”

    The adventure travel industry is a crowded one. There are scores of companies that include in their clientele the niche market at which Global Adrenaline is aimed specifically, and many of those are much larger than Global Adrenaline will ever be. But very few set their sights solely on young academics and professionals, and that, according to Nancy Collins, is part of what makes her company so unique.

    “To be good at what you do, you have to be focused on your customer,” she says, “…people are looking for very different things in terms of educational and physical aspects of their trip: the 12-year-old will want one thing, the 30-year-old will want another, and the 60-year-old will want still another.”

    Global Adrenaline markets itself primarily to a group of people they know will be both intellectually curious and physically able–their clients want to go where they’ll be able to experience pristine nature and cultures that haven’t been overrun by bus tours and billboards. They want to go where the average family vacationers will not, if only because it’s hard to get there. But the company differentiates itself from its peers in another way–while many of the bigger names in the industry will cater to either backpackers on a shoestring budget or wealthier individuals who can afford extravagance when they travel, Global Adrenaline likes to balance elements of luxury with the realities of traveling in the third world, and they try to make this experience affordable across a broad range of incomes.

    “It would be wonderful if we could be truly global,” Collins says, referring to the company’s name, “but we add a lot more value by organizing trips to places that are challenging in very specific ways.” Part of this sense of challenge comes from traveling to more remote regions that take an extra measure of effort to reach. Global Adrenaline has organized programs such as cruising to the Falkland Islands and the rugged Antarctic Peninsula, rafting and kayaking the rivers of Patagonia, trekking through the Tsering Kang Himalaya in Bhutan, or climbing the snowy heights of Mount Kilimanjaro. They set themselves apart by including in their staff of local guides, individuals who are authorities in specific fields. For instance, on a trip that takes adventurers hiking to the north face of Mount Everest, one of the specialist guides is also a professor of Tibetan studies at a major New Zealand university who is fluent in local dialects and an expert in Tibetan culture. It goes without saying, there are great benefits to having someone with such intimate cultural understanding as a guide.

    But for Nancy Collins, there’s more to consider when building a travel program than the interests of her clients. Part of her–and thus, Global Adrenaline’s–philosophy is to give back to the communities they visit. “We make certain kinds of business choices that will be economically advantageous to local communities,” says Collins. “We develop itineraries so they have culturally sensitive and educational elements.”

    This means, for example, providing accommodation in locally owned inns and houses, and using local suppliers, guides, and more, in an effort to ensure that all the money spent in each community goes back to that community, and not to governments and organizations that are likely to spend it elsewhere.

    Collins is open about seeking clients eager to delve into the realities of a culture, even if those realities are at times harsher than our own. But it should be made clear that Global Adrenaline clients aren’t expected to sacrifice their overall comfort in the name of cultural immersion. Each trip is staffed by guides who double as gourmet cooks, fixing daily rations that often blend local flavors with western-style cuisine; and while accommodations are typically split between lodges and tents, Collins works to ensure her clients are happy and comfortable in both: lodges tend to be reasonably priced three- or four-star establishments, and camp sites are often chosen for their spectacular settings and can include solar showers and a private “toilet tent.”

    “I’m definitely more detail oriented, than a ‘big-picture’ person,” says Collins, “which has worked out perfectly because, when you’re planning a trip for someone, everything has to be perfect.”

    When asked about her own ideas on the people and places she is getting to know, Collins’ tone turns to that of an academic who began her journey studying the world through economics. “Broad generalizations can be made across cultures in terms of their level of economic development,” she says. “There are a lot of things that are common to developing countries that are different for developed countries…” She goes on to talk about family size, income, education, and religious freedom as indicators of social development, referring often to the gaps between first-world and third-world nations. They are valid and well-constructed points that demonstrate her insight into the evolution of modern societies, but behind the academic jargon, one senses Collins has a greater, if simpler, understanding of what she would like her clients to take away from their trips: there are opportunities to learn that goodness exists in the differences between us, and we can interact with these communities in a way that benefits everyone. Certainly, in global times such as these, there are few more important lessons.

    Collins, herself, has gone on most of the trips her company offers, and–like any good business person should–she makes sure all of Global Adrenaline’s employees have a chance to experience them as well. “My favorite trips are the ones furthest from anything resembling civilization,” she says. “I think I get the most out of a trip when I am challenged both physically and mentally. I don’t like to be spoon fed a cultural experience–you have to go out and do it.”

    As with most things in Nancy Collins’ life, the future of Global Adrenaline cannot be predicted. She’s sure of its longevity–“it will be here ten years from now,” she says with confidence–but the rest remains to be seen. “It takes a lot out of you on a personal level to start a business, but I wouldn’t do anything differently. It’s very personally rewarding to dump yourself into something that you have a vision for.”

    Collins follows a “learn-as-you-go” mentality, believing that Global Adrenaline will grow larger as it matures; but while undoubtedly she would like to see her company included among the big names in adventure travel, she seems hesitant to turn it into a physically large company. “That’s not what I want it to be,” she says. “When it’s smaller, it’s more like a family.” And if there’s one lesson she’s taken away from this challenge, it’s this: “you realize just how important friends and family are.”

    One senses there are many more turns in Nancy Collins’ life that even she cannot foretell. From Princeton to the World Bank to Global Adrenaline, she is an adventurer on an epic journey. And while we may not be there every step of the way, we can at least feel at ease in the knowledge that this is one person who’s working hard to make our world a better place.

  • Russia

    Russian FlagThe 9th-century founding of Novgorod by the Viking Rurik initiated a more than thousand-year history of wealth and war, trial and loss, conquest, Communism, and tyranny. The monarchic splendor and seething peasant ideology of old Russia, coupled with the complex social, economic, and political changes brought about during the Soviet era, survive today in one form or another in what is possibly the most enigmatic yet of this country’s many incarnations.

    The Russian people cannot be defined merely by geography, climate, language, ethnicity, or shared history. Despite its comparatively small population (Indonesia, a country roughly nine times smaller, has a population twice as large), the Russians bring with them heritage and cultural diversity tied to Western and Eastern Europe, Scandinavia, the Near East and Asian Steppe, the Arctic north, and East Asia. Among Russia’s conquering parties since its inception are the Swedes, the Tatars, and the Mongols, to say nothing of the long-emergent Western culture that has been alternately embraced and rejected by changing governments. If you want to know Russia, you have to know its people: the soul of this country and its dramatic, often jubilant, and sometimes terrifying history is spelled out by their actions and their lives.

    Russia MapModern Russia, in the post-Gorbachev era, has been plagued by economic instability, political indecision, and corruption both within government and civil organizations outside of them. Crime and drug abuse are at shocking highs, and protectionist politicians and shady industrial leaders are seemingly at odds with each other. Despite this, there remains a great deal of optimism among the Russian people. Theirs is a society bred out of hardship, but also out of great respect for academia, the arts, and sciences.

    NOTE: Travelers are advised against travel in Chechnya and Dagestan. It is currently unsafe to travel in these areas, as well as in neighboring Ingushetia. Other areas of concern are North Ossetia, Stavropol, Karachayevo-Cherkessiya, and Kabardino-Balkariya. Consular support in each of these areas can be negligible or nonexistent.

    Traveling in Russia
    All visitors to Russia require a visa. Meal prices range from US$5-$10 (budget) to to US$15-$25 (higher end). Lodging prices go from US$15-$45 (budget) to US$100+ (high end). Carrying cash (in U.S. dollars) can be risky, especially in larger cities where crime rates have soared; however, the U.S. dollar is the easiest to convert. Traveler’s checks can be frustratingly difficult to change, and credit card advances are generally available in the cities, but not in the rural areas.

    High-end hotels and restaurants will typically include a tip in your bill. Porters may expect a tip of roughly US$1 per bag, and while shop prices are often non-negotiable, you’ll be expected to bargain in markets.

    Daily flights to Moscow can be taken from New York, most major European cities, as well as Hong Kong and other Asian centers. Many European cities also fly direct to St. Petersburg. Train routes into Russia run mostly through Helsinki, Warsaw, Prague, and Budapest, with some trains originating in Paris and Amsterdam. Also, the Trans-Siberian Railway connects to a Beijing line. There is ferry service from parts of Scandinavia, Germany, Turkey, and Georgia.

    Within European Russia, the best methods of travel are train, bus, or–in the summer–passenger boats on the rivers. If you’re going farther afield, take note that deregulation in the domestic airline industry has made flying not just inconvenient, but often unsafe. Try to book a domestic flight with an international teminus, since international flights are required to meet a specific standard.

    Health concerns may include Diphtheria, Hepatitis, Rabies, Typhoid.

    Weather in Russia
    Because of the sprawling size of Russia, no one climatalogical summary would suffice. Moscow and St. Petersburg have similar summer temperatures (averaging roughly 24°C). Moscow is in the thick of winter by the end of November, emerging from the cold around mid-April. Winter temps average around -12°C. St. Petersburg’s average winter temperature is about -8°C. Vladivostok, on the Pacific coast, has somewhat milder weather than elsewhere in the Russian Far East. The northeastern town of Oymyakon, is the coldest inhabited place on earth, with winter temperatures plunging to -65°C.

    Russian Federation Information
    Population:
    145.5 million
    Government: Federation
    Area: 17 million sq km
    Capitol: Moscow (pop 9 million)
    Language: Russian
    People: 81% Russian, 4% Tatar, 3% Ukrainian and numerous ethnic minorities
    Religion: Russian Orthodox, Islam, Animist
    Major products/industries: Oil, coal, iron ore, timber, automotive, agricultural and construction equipment

  • Egypt

    Eygpt FlagEgypt might be considered the world’s oldest tourist destination. With a plethora of cultural artifacts dating back thousands of years, and a long history of artistic, political, intellectual, and commercial milestones, the country and region have been attracting travelers since ancient times. The pyramids and tombs are not the only reason to visit Egypt. There is an extraordinary amount of art and architecture including relics from centuries of Greek, Roman, and Arabic occupation. All along the River Nile you can see different parts of Egyptian history that have survived thousands of years of cultural change and the rapid growth.

    But Egypt, like so many ancient lands, has entered the modern world paradoxically. Laborers often use the tools of their ancestors to farm, while the automobile traffic in the cities can be maddening. These contrasts are all over Egypt, and how much modernization Egypt accepts will ultimately effect the past, as well as the future of this great land.

    Traveling in Egypt
    Eygpt  Map Most flights connect to Egypt through European cities. Flying domestically in Egypt can be expensive, but there are trains, buses, and boats that will take you anywhere you want to go. Trains and buses can be extremely crowded because they usually wait until they cannot fit another body, before pulling away from the station. This may be uncomfortable, but it’s a great way to immerse yourself in the culture.

    Everyone traveling to Egypt is required to obtain a visa, avaible from Egyptian embassies worldwide. However, if you are from the United Stated, the European Union, Canada, or one of GCC countries, you can get a visa upon arrival at one of the larger airports, but you may want to deal with this beforehand, to avoid the trouble. Most visas last for one month, but they can generally be extended.

    Traveling in Egypt is cheap: most meals cost under US$5, good hotels can be found for under US$50 a night, many are under US$25.

    There are plenty of pickpockets around so it is a good idea to be extra careful with cash or valuables. Traveler’s checks are still a good way to carry cash as long as they are American Express or Visa. Credit Cards are accepted in some places, and there are ATM’s in larger cities.

    Gratuities are generally included in the bill, but you might double check to be sure. Haggling for items at the market and elsewhere is a way of life in Egypt, so don’t take anything at first glance–the cost of most products can be bargained down, including hotel rooms and other goods. A rule of thumb, when haggling, is never offer a price if you are not willing to pay it; if a shop keeper accepts your offer you, will be expected hand over the cash, pronto. Don’t bargain hunt if you’re not going to purchase–it could get you into trouble.

    Weather in Egypt
    South of Cairo, toward Luxor and Aswan, the blazing heat can be very uncomforable between June and August. However, this is also the most crowded time of year around the Mediterranean Coast. So when you choose to go depends entirely on what you want to do. The best time to travel south of Cairo is December to February. If you want to enjoy the north shore, March to May is the least crowded time when the weather will still be warm.

    Health Concerns in Egypt
    Bilharzia ranks second behind malaria as a public health concern in tropical and subtropical areas. You can get this disease through contact with infected water, and in Egypt, it is mainly found in the waters of the Nile.

    Diagnosing bilharzia is done by checking a patient’s urine or fecal matter. If you want to keep from getting this disease it is best to stay away from fresh water rivers and streams, especially near agricultural areas. For more information check out the following website: http: //www.who.ch/.

    Africa MapEgypt Information
    Population: 69.5 million
    Government: Republic
    Square Miles: 622,272 sq mi (1,001,449 sq km)
    Capitols: Cairo
    Languages: Arabic
    People: Berbers, Bedouins, and Nubians
    Religion: 94% Islam, 6% Christian
    Major products/industries: Oil & gas, metals, tourism, agriculture (especially cotton), and Suez Canal revenues

  • Australia

    Australia FlagAustralia is one of the world’s most unique natural habitats. Because it is isolated from most of the world, it has a wide variety of animals unique to its continent, and landscape that seems as impossible to live in as it is stunningly beautiful. It’s hard to justify trying to see all of Australia in just one trip. You will see some of the best beaches, experience some of the most inspiring wildlife, and meet among the finest people the world has to offer.

    The Australian Aborigines, have the longest continuous cultural history in the world, and were in Australia thousands of years before anyone else set foot on the continent.

    Europeans explorers came to Australia in the 16th century: first the Portuguese, then the Dutch explorers, and finally English pirate William Dampier. Captain James Cook sailed the eastern coast in 1770, on his famous voyage stopping at Botany Bay and literally running into the Great Barrier Reef. He claimed the continent for the British.

    In 1787, a fleet of 11 ships, 750 male and female convicts, and four companies of marines landed in Botany Bay. For the new arrivals, Australia was a harsh and horrible place; starvation was a constant threat.

    Traveling in Australia
    Australia Map Australia’s climate differs a great deal depending on what part of the continent you are visiting. If you plan on staying in the southeast, near Melbourne or Sydney the climate is very nice year round. But up north in Queensland and the Northern Territory it can be brutal. The Australian continent is roughly the size of the United States; unless you plan to take a single long trip there, it will be difficult to see and do all that’s available to you. Focusing on specific parts of the continent is the best plan, so you get the most out of your experience. But don’t think that because you’ve seen Sydney, that you have seen Australia. That would be like going to New York City and saying you’ve seen the U.S. There’s a lot more to this beautiful land than its flagship city.

    Weather in Australia

    Much of Australia has great weather throughout the year, and there really isn’t a bad time to go. However, from December to February (Southern Hemispheric summer) it can be quite hot, and is best to be on the southern beaches. In the northern parts, in summer, it’s often wet and humid. The oceans to the north can also be unswimable due to the box jellyfish, which is one of many poisonous animal species in Australia.
    AustraliaAustralia
    Population:
    19.5 million
    Government:
    Independent member of the British Commonwealth
    Square Miles:
    2,966,200 sq mi (7,682,300 sq km)
    Capitol:
    Canberra (pop: 313,000)
    Official Language:
    English, Aboriginal languages
    People:
    94% European descent, 4% Asian, 1.5% Aboriginal
    Religion:
    75% Christian, 1% Muslim, 1% Buddhist
    Major products/industries:
    Minerals, oil, coal, gold, wool, cereals, meat

  • London Calling

    Horse guards at Buckingham Palace I was already aware of the intricacies of British culture, having lived in England previously as a history teacher at a rural boarding school, during my first year out of college. But I later moved to the capital city–working toward a Master’s degree in Environment and Development at the London School of Economics–which made that prior experience seem about as exciting as reading VCR instructions. What struck me most was London’s diversity, geographical mix, and relentless pulse.

    By their very nature, cities will always be more diverse than rural communities, but London seems to stand out above the rest. On my 45-minute bus ride home from university, each day, I would regularly hear over five different languages, including regional African dialects Stand-out London youth in a crowdspoken by statuesque women in fully robed regalia. My local borough (I lived in Herne Hill, near Brixton) equips its police officers with a handbook on how to approach citizens in over 20 languages. Walking from the bus stop to my house, I passed by Jamaicans, Trinidadians, Poles, and Koreans; flags waving and music blaring outside their shops and homes. All of this brought to mind a metaphor usually reserved for my native country: London is truly a great mixed salad. Pedestrians at the Chinatown gateThere is much less national identity in London, these days, as opposed to, say, during the time of Splendid Isolation–the national flag, for instance, carries very little symbolic value for most Brits, and there is no equivalent to the American “Pledge of Allegiance.” Each nationality retains its own cultural identity, merging seamlessly in the context of the professional world, while simultaneously promoting unique fashion, food, style, and slang that burst and fade in friendly competition. One can symbolically travel the world in London with merely a $3 bus pass and a good pair of shoes.

    Unique tenement flats in WestminsterFurther, while mixed-class development projects are now taking root in North America in reaction to the crumbling of inner cities, London, for the most part, avoided this structural weathering by virtue of the tragic and destructive effects of the Second World War. It was not good foresight, but rather the London Blitz, that forced the creation of an urban geography of wealthy and nonwealthy classes well-mixed along the same street. The 1940 bombing by German warplanes was indiscriminate in London, pockmarking all areas of the city with craters where once stood homes and businesses. After the war, the British Brick tenement buildings in Londongovernment initiated the “Homes for Heroes” program to house returning veterans, transforming the rubble into massive housing estates that often rise awkwardly above Georgian and Edwardian masterpieces. Over time these individual “council flats” were sold on the market or converted to low-income housing, and now they dot the Traditional dancers at a Latin heritage festivalLondon landscape, even in the poshest suburbs and high streets (shopping areas). Proximity breeds tolerance on both sides, and as a result, the city seems relatively at ease with class differences. Moreover, visitors can walk almost anywhere in London and rarely feel their safety threatened.

    Bangladeshi kids trying a dish at the Brick Lane FestivalAll of this contributes to an underlying vibe in London that is unparalleled. At first glance, a visitor may find the city to be a dazzling display of historical sites, facades of the Old World, and relics of the Crown. But with more time and closer inspection, London emerges as that fabled Congo river boat from Conrad’sDancers at a festival celebrating African and  Caribbean Culture classic, Heart of Darkness (which begins on the River Thames, just miles from London)–having stepped aboard, and not knowing who controls the wheel, speed, or direction, we are swept downstream among the jungle’s pulse and intensity, clinging first to the safety of what we know before regaining our will and walking freely through the bright lights, markets, and hushed corners of this great city. It is Riders of the “Tube” descending into a stationeveryman’s and everywoman’s city, and the best way to know it is as such–with a pub on one side, and pub on the other.

    The many faces of London on a crowded sidewalkLondon has, for centuries, conformed to its inhabitants and the demands of the country and world, first as a commercial port, then as the political and financial capital of the British Empire, followed by a trying period of heavy industry in the early 20th century, and finally reaching its present-day service- and tourism-based economy. If you do visit London, resist the temptation to take the convenient Tube–the city’s famed subway system. Take the bus instead, at least on your first day. Instead of popping out of dark ferret holes all day, you’ll see first hand how a city of 8 million people, cramped streets, and sparkling greens manages to contract, expand, and breathe with the daily demands of modern life. After a few days in “town” you may be reminded of the graceful words of Samuel Johnson, whose penned prose still seems to emanate from every Soho storefront and Hyde Park hollow: “He who is tired of London, is tired of life.”

  • Pipe Dreams

    by Daren Stinson
    British PlumbingDuring my four weeks in the United Kingdom last summer, I crisscrossed the country and reveled in its history, beauty, and variety. As the landscape changed, so did the dialects, architecture, culture, and food, but I did find one constant. I was constantly plagued by inadequate plumbing. I have friends and relatives who have been to the U.K. I have friends who are British. Why didn’t anyone warn me? Okay, the topic isn’t one likely to come up in polite conversation, but when my family asked me about my trip, I couldn’t help but express my frustration with the plumbing issues I faced daily. The Brits may take pride in their long history, progressive metropolises, and quaint country towns, but there is something to be said for modern convenience where you need it most: in the bathroom. Since my return, when I have had occasion to bring the subject up, I’ve gotten reactions ranging from surprise to a casual shrug as if it was something that everyone knew. For those of you who do not know, please read on…

    Toilets
    Considering the inventor of the flushable toilet, Albert Giblin (credit is often, wrongfully, bestowed upon Sir Thomas Crapper), was himself a Brit, there is little excuse for primitive nature of British loos. At first, I thought I was just having bad luck, but after comparing notes with a fellow traveler, and discovering that she had encountered the same problems, we had a lengthy discussion about our experiences and came to the following conclusion: it takes at least three flushes to do the job. Holding the handle down longer doesn’t help and, in fact, can exacerbate the problem. I spent 20 minutes some days just trying to make sure that the loo was fully flushed for the next person.

    Apparently, poorly functioning toilets are so widespread throughout the country that everyone just incorporates it into their day, like breathing. Near the end of my trip, I asked a friend who is a native Brit if he’d ever noticed problems flushing the toilets. He just shrugged. He didn’t seem to care. I wondered if his casual attitude was because he’d never experienced a properly functioning toilet? My advice: let the toilet water run full cycle before trying again, and if you are in a big hurry, try to sneak out of the bathroom before anyone figures out which stall you used.

    The one bright spot I found during my toilet toiling was that Brits do have a sense of humor, however subtle and twisted. They annually acknowledge the “Loo of the Year” (see http://freespace.virgin.net/martin.higham/).

    I expect there is a long checklist of qualifications used to determine which public facility deserves such an honor, however, flushability is the obvious exemption. I know this because I used the bathroom at Castle Howard (outside of York, in North England) recipient of “2001 Loo of the Year” award. While the bathroom was attractive, with wood paneled stalls and Corian-style wash basins, I ranked it in my top three most troublesome flushing experiences (and make no mistake, that was not due to my contributions).

    I did have a favorite public bathroom. It was in a little café in Guildford, about an hour south of London. The washroom was very small–actually closet-like–and had just one toilet and a very small sink. Despite the lack of elbow room (don’t try to bring your backpack in there), it had two very key benefits, a unique toilet seat and a one-flush-and-you’re-all-set feature. The toilet seat was outstanding. It was made of clear plastic, and suspended inside the mold were pieces of candy: lifesavers, gummy bears, gumdrops, peppermint swirls, and lollipops. My only regret from my entire trip was that I did not have my camera in there with me to take a picture of this seat. The fact that the toilet flushed on the first try was an added bonus, and the combination alone should qualify it hands down as the “Premier Loo of the U.K.” (For more on British toilets, see http://www.britloos.co.uk/.)

    While the toilets were troublesome, they were at times amusing. What I found distinctly less amusing was what the people of Britain accept as a sorry excuse for a shower.

    Showers
    I never did get confirmation on this, but I decided that British people must take a lot of baths because, aside from in the newer buildings (and even sometimes in those), every place I stayed had a bathtub with a makeshift shower. By makeshift I mean, instead of a sturdy chrome shower head poking through a wall of tile, as you might expect in many other first-world countries, a bather is instead faced with a hose-like contraption bracketed up the wall above the tub faucet and topped with a small plastic showerhead, all resembling a slightly larger version of one of those flexi-hose nozzles used to help rinse dishes in the kitchen sink. It was as if someone had traveled to America, been impressed by our quick and convenient method of bathing, and rushed home to the mother land to jerry rig a similar contraption from a piece of garden hose and a small sprinkler head. And after it was done once, the idea took off like wildfire across the country, with every copy cat using the same cheap parts.

    Another interesting feature is that no shower in the U.K. operates by simply turning on the water–that would be too easy. Every single shower I used had a trick to it. You have to find the pull-cord or the red switch or knob, or all three, before you could get the eventual trickle of water to leak out. I strongly advise travelers to ask your host how the shower works before you are left alone in the bathroom to fend for yourself.

    Also, since water pressure seems to be potluck, I often had trouble rinsing the shampoo from my hair, and usually ended up with rather dull, flat locks. My solution: don’t wash your hair more than once a week (it looks the same clean or dirty under these conditions anyway). Another option is to finish showering, then rinse your hair under the tub faucet. This works better, but it was difficult to get into an effective position, and I felt a little silly trying, so I only did it once, when I was staying in York, home of the worst plumbing in the country. (I do advise that if you are really struggling with these toilet and shower issues, avoid York altogether.)

    Water pressure problems are the main source of the flushing and showering struggles. Most British homes have only a 1/2-inch supply line to the water main (compared to the much larger standard American pipes), which will not provide enough water for simultaneous use of sinks, showers, and/or toilets. To get around this problem, many homes have installed a cistern in the attic that depends on gravity to distribute water through the rest of the house. This sometimes forces a homeowner to install a pump or heater/pump in places like the shower (hence the switches, knobs, and pull-cords mentioned above) just to have somewhat adequate water pressure. As it is, the materials used in shower construction are designed for low-pressure flow.

    My personal theory (and this has not been confirmed) is that the plumbing in much of Britain was installed in the wake of the devastation caused by World War II, and has yet to undergo any major renovation since then. And because the Brits seem perfectly content to live with their showers and loos as is, we tourists who are used to a little something more must simply get used to it too. But if you’re like me and love to travel, but always end up writing “Things I Miss from Home” lists, you can be sure that your bathroom, will be at the tops of that list, and it will forever after hold a special place in your heart.

  • Montserrat

    Montserrat FlagMontserrat was once called the “Emerald Isle of the Caribbean,” a phrase coined by Columbus. It is graced with lush mountains and landscape crowned by three towering volcanoes. Unfortunately, one of those volcanoes–the Soufrière Hills volcano–erupted in 1995, making most of the island uninhabitable.

    Now, most of Montserrat’s residents live off-island–many having since relocated to Britain–while a very few remain in the less affected northern part of the island, or in emergency shelters, while waiting out the “storm.” Even with a volcano that continues to erupt periodically, tourists visit Montserrat, though certainly not in the number they once did.

    The capitol of Plymouth, with its Georgian-style houses and winding streets, now lays under many feet of ash.

    Montserrat MapSince the last major eruption, the governmental center of the island has been relocated to Brades near Carr’s Bay/Little Bay. But as of now, the island has no “cultural hub” like Plymouth was before the eruption. This can make finding provisions difficult since there is no major town center.

    The only people allowed into the restricted (read: dangerous) zone are scientists or people with business in that area. But there are many helicopter tours available to give you a bird’s-eye view of the southern portion of the island.

    Many locals who moved to England, Canada, or other British territories after the eruption are beginning to return and in the coming years Montserrat may again emerge as a major tourist destination, but for now it seems to only attract the courtesy of a few.

    If you are interested in visiting the island, it’s best to contact the tourist board for updated information.

    Traveling to/in Montserrat
    Montserrat VolcanoTo get to Montserrat you must fly to Antigua and either take a ferry or a helicopter charter to the island; the latter will prove to be a much more expensive route. The ferry ride takes about one hour, while the helicopter takes just twenty minutes. You can also arrive via helicopter from St. Kitts. To see the ferry or helicopter schedules click here.

    Once on island, the best way to get around is either by taxi or rental a car. You can also get a bus tour from one of the island’s tour companies.

    Weather in Montserrat
    Because of its location, the weather in Montserrat is almost always warm. The average high temperature throughout the year is around 80°F. The rainiest time of year is between June and December. Weatherwise, the least desirable time to visit is during hurricane season, which runs from June through October.

    Montserrat Information
    Population: 5000 (est. 2000)
    Government: Territory of the United Kingdom
    Square Miles: 39.5 sq mi (102 sq km)
    Capitol: Plymouth (mostly destroyed, August 1997)
    Brades, in Carr’s Bay/Little Bay (established after eruption)
    Official Languages: English
    People: African (90%), mixed descent (6%), European and East Indian (4%)
    Religion: Roman Catholic, Anglican, Methodist and other Christian denominations
    Major products/industries: tourism (until 1995), rum, textiles, electronic appliances

  • Solomon Islands

    Solomon Islands
    Solomon Islands MapMillenia of immigration of Melanesians, Polynesians, Asians, Micronesians, and Westerners has made the Solomon Islands one of the most culturally rich island nations in the world. With thousands of small villages still espousing age-old beliefs and practicing ancient customs, locals are generally more than happy to allow you access to their land and entrance into their unique world, as well as help you find your way around the many small islands and vast lagoons that make the Solomons famous.

    Solomon Islands FlagTraveling to the Solomon Islands is not easy, with a troubled economic infrastructure, and fewer flights landing in its capital Honiara; however, the world-class scuba diving, fishing, snorkelling, and birding, as well as the colorful culture and the welcoming nature of the islanders makes this place very much worth a visit. Historically, interest in the Solomon Islands is focused on the role they played in the Pacific during World War II–the wreck-strewn waters of Iron Bottom Sound are testament to the strategic importance of the islands.

    Caution: Due to a rise in ethnic and economic tensions in the Solomon Islands, the U.S. and Australian governments have issued travel advisories against going to certain parts. Most visitors will attest that these tensions do not typically affect travelers; however, it may be worth investigating the region’s social and political situation before departing.

    Traveling in the Solomon Islands
    Because of their remote proximity to major regional air routes, the Solomon Islands remain quiet and unspoiled by tourism. Most of the hotels are located in the capital. Outside Honiara, facilities tend toward small hotels and basic village resorts. The Western Province offers spectacular lagoons and shallow coral reefs that are ideal for snorkeling and scuba diving.

    Inter-island transport is provided by Solomon Airline (the national airline) and Western Pacific (a privately owned local airline). During peak travel times–typically around the end of the year–it can be difficult to secure a seat without a booking several weeks in advance. Boat travel is available between all the islands, but because of the time it takes to traverse the waters between them, few visitors choose to use this method.

    Because the Solomons do not have a well-developed tourism infrastructure, it has remained comparitively pristine, both culturally and ecologically. For those willing to embrace the relative discomforts of travel in the islands, the experience is sure to be a rewarding one.

    The currency is the Solomon Islands dollar (US$1 = SI$3.5, approx.). Travelers checks can be exchanged in provincial capitals only, though it’s best to exchange traveler’s checks at a bank in Honiara before departing for other areas. Major credit cards are widely accepted in hotels and restaurants in Honiara, and at the larger hotels and resorts in the provinces. Tipping is not advised.

    Malaria risk is highest during the wet season. Mosquitoes avoid sprayed areas and come out mainly at dusk–so keep yourself sprayed, sleep under a sprayed mosquito net or in a screened room, wear long sleeves and trousers if you go out at dusk, and see your doctor before leaving for the Solomons for antimalaria medication.

    Weather in the Solomon Islands
    The climate in the Solomon Islands is tropical. Average daytime temperatures are around 85°F. Water temperatures are roughly 80-85°F. November through March tends to be hot and humid, with monsoon rains and the possibility of cyclones. April through October is drier and windy.

    Solomon Islands Information
    Population: 441,000
    Government: Parliamentary democracy
    Square Miles: 62,000 sq mi (1.35 million sq km); 10,750 sq mi (27,556 sq km) of dry land
    Capitol: Honiara
    Official Language: Solomon Islands Pijin, English and 67 official indigenous languages
    People: Melanesian (95%), Polynesian (4%), Asian and Micronesian (1%)
    Religion: Christian denominations (96%)
    Major products/industries: Timber, fish, palm oil

  • Finding the Heart of the Alsek

    Finding the Heart of the Alsek

    photographs by Jeff Walpole
    On the Alsek RiverOn every river you can find one place that’s so full of mystery, life, and beauty, that it’s like finding the very heart of the river itself. It may be a shadowy, swirling pool that reflects light in such a way, you could swear you were seeing into another world. Or it could be an easy bend where the rush has undercut the bank, and trees’ roots dip into the stream. They are images of every river, but something about that particular spot makes it seem different, unique, and inspired. On the Alsek, you can find that place after each turn.

    Alaska MapThe Alsek River is not easy to find (it’s short, often not labeled on maps or in atlases) and a challenge to get to: we traveled to Juneau, Alaska, a capitol city accessible only by air and sea, and took a ferry on the Alaska Marine Highway system up the spectacularly immense Lynn Canal fjord to the panhandle fishing town of Haines. From there, we drove five hours in a school Area of interestbus into the Yukon Territory, Canada, to the Kluane National Park and Reserve town of Haines Junction; then we hiked in several hours to the banks of the Dezadeash River–near the confluence of the Kaskawulsh River–just upstream from where the Alsek begins in earnest. Here, we joined our guides, acquainted ourselves with the two-ton (loaded) inflatable oars rafts that would be our primary mode of transportation for most of the next two weeks, and set off downstream.

    This was the start of a wilderness so remote that once we were on the water, we wouldn’t see another group of humans for more than ten days. It’s a part of the world where there are mountains as far as the eye can see, many soaring to 10,000 feet or more, and most of them still unnamed. The same goes for the glaciers, flowing from a lake of ice in the center of the adjacent mountains that’s so vast, an entire range has been named for it (the Icefield Range), its frozen rivers coursing through the valleys and filling the Alsek with frigid water, icebergs, dirt and silt, boulders, and more, as they grind the earth beneath their creeping weight.

    Hiking near the AlsekOn our hike into the launching point, we saw the first of eight bears (black and grizzly; a low number, compared to some trips, but we weren’t disappointed), as well as any number of regionally specific birds, including trumpeter swan, golden eagle, and Arctic tern. We were a group of fourteen, including three highly experienced professional guides. Ours was a private trip organized by an old friend, Mike Pratt, who had run the Alsek more than any man before him; he would be our lead guide on the river, and this would be his last commercial trip down it, before settling into married life in his home back in the contiguous United States. The gear, itinerary, and all three guides had signed on through the international adventure travel company Mountain Travel Sobek.

    Running the Alsek is not for the faint of heart. We were twelve days on the river, hiking and paddling and very often fighting off the dampness of 34º water; sometimes enduring a bone-chilling rain that turned to snow just up the side of the nearby mountains; sleeping in tents filled with mosquitoes “big enough to carry off grizzly bear,” I heard someone joke; not showering or bathing properly; sharing ourselves and our most intimate moments with a group of people. But it’s not bad either. There are special things on the Alsek: a herd of mountain goats that graze on the grassy slopes of a hillside named specifically for them (Goatherd Mountain); the soft fluorescence of blue ice at the core of a massive, recently calved iceberg; and of course, the ancient whispering rush of currents at the confluence of two great rivers: the Alsek and its more frequented neighbor, the Tatshenshini.

    In the first few days we got our bearings. We tried our hands at the oars (though our main jobs would be to paddle when the oarsman/guides needed our help, or when we needed the circulation to keep warm). We acclimated to the temperature, altitude, and environment. We got to know our tents and, in some cases, our tent mates. And we asked questions–lots of questions… Will we see many bears? What do we do if we see one up close? [Counter to many people’s understanding, our guides refer to the popular “bear bell” as a “dinner bell,” because it is more likely to attract a bear, than deter it.] How well will we eat? How often will we eat? Where will we do our “business”? What are the rapids like? What happens if we fall in the cold, cold water? How far can we roam without a companion, bear spray, knife, guide, or otherwise? Questions. Questions. Questions. Listening to us, you might think we’d never set foot outside our urban enclaves before, protected by the convenience of a McDonald’s on every corner and a Starbucks in between. In fact, for the most part, all of us had reasonable experience in the outdoors: camping, trekking, rafting–roughing it, as they say. But none except our guides had ever been to a wilderness so removed and dramatic as this. It had an immediate effect: it turned us into excited little kids, with a new question for every answer we were given.

    What? How? When? Where? Why? It sounds rather pesky, but on the Alsek, where danger can arise at every turn, these questions must be asked. What do you do when you’re standing face to face with a grizzly? You gently raise your arms to the sky to show that you’re not threatening, then you speak quietly to the bear, while slowly backing away in an oblique direction: “Hey bear,” you might say, “Ho bear. I don’t mean any harm. Just passing through…” And if the grizzly decides to charge, and you’re lucky enough to have bear spray at hand, then you make sure–in the split second you have to think–that you’re not downwind, when you spray that animal right between the eyes. One small can of bear spray (essentially, mace for a 1,200 pound beast–guns are strictly forbidden in the Canadian parks system) will almost always disable the animal, sending it into the woods to tend to its stinging senses. If you’re downwind and the spray blows back on you, you’ll feel the very unfortunate effects yourself. Of course, if you’re unlucky enough to be without the spray, you should drop to the ground, face down, cover the back of your neck, and let the bear maul you. Very often he or she will simply play with you before losing interest, but “playing” with an animal six times your size, with gnashing teeth and razor sharp claws means being thrashed and slashed open, severely injured, or even killed. And that’s the point: there are many opportunities to lose your life on the Alsek, if you’re not careful. That’s part of what makes it such a wilderness adventure.

    A view of Lowell Glacier from the top of Goatherd MountainBut danger is only one side of the equation. Depending on your method of travel–using a professional company, with guides who are also great cooks, storytellers, naturalists, and jokesters; or a self-guided trip down the river, which can be not only more dangerous (for not having at least an idea of what to expect), but also less inspiring, if you’re not totally familiar with the Alsek–for every threatening moment, there can be ten more that are comforting and even luxurious. On our third day, camping at a site we called “Sandblaster” because of its uncomfortably strong winds and barren sandy landscape that pelted us horizontally in the gusts, we were treated to an exhilarating hike up Goatherd Mountain, from the top of which we had the best vantage possible of the enormous Lowell Glacier–a frozen river of mud and ice so wide it resembles a 50-lane superhighway; then we feasted at the river’s edge on a delicious dinner of fresh grilled sockeye salmon and vegetables, with tea and hot chocolate; followed by a site I thought I’d never see in such wilderness: a makeshift–but ingeniously engineered–sauna, made from a spare tent covered with heat-trapping tarps, the steam created by dripping glacier water over three heavy steel bricks that had been buried in the fire pit for hours. Later, our night was defined by the blowing wind and the rhythmic rumble of icebergs calving into the river, and well before the rest of camp rallied, a few of us woke for a glorious view of the 3:30 A.M. sunrise over the ever-present Mounts Kennedy, Alverstone, and Hubbard, which themselves seemed to rise out of the much closer Lowell Glacier. It is the kind of picture, I think, mere words cannot describe adequately. Even a photograph seems only to partially capture the environment of the Alsek. In the end, I knew, I was witnessing among the best the earth had to offer; after this trip, I thought, I would not sense the world around me in the same ordinary terms I once had.

    This was indicative of our experience there: work hard in the day–paddling and hiking through a spectacular environment, while finding harmony with cold rain and winds, icy river water, and sometimes frozen air–and unwind at night with a hot meal, good drinks, stories, games, and a warm sleeping bag. When we were lucky enough to find a camp with a long, flat beach, we’d set up a horseshoes pit, or play a sort of tug-of-war game called “hunker down,” which involves two opponents balancing opposite each other on ammo cans (used on river trips for easily accessible airtight containers) and trying to force each other to fall to the ground by strategically pulling and releasing the end of a rope that the players hold between them.

    A sunrise on the AlsekThere are several places on the Alsek where I thought the world had invented itself in the most striking and beautiful possible form. The purple sunrise on Mt. Hubbard, behind the meandering Lowell Glacier; the fresh fallen snow on a jagged nameless peak that reminded me of something from a Tolkien novel; the churning holes in the great rapid Lava North, for which we donned dry suits and an extra measure of courage to run (falling in the river there can mean certain death, if you get caught in an eddy); or the eerie silence on a foggy morning as we gathered firewood on a sandbar at the head of Alsek Lake. But despite all of these amazing natural wonders, the time my adrenaline hit its peak was not while immersed in the unadulterated landscape of the Alsek, but rather, while hurtling through the air, hundreds of feet above the seven-mile-long face of the Tweedsmuir Glacier, staring down at the boiling cauldron of rapids in the impassable Turnback Canyon, from the relative safety of a speeding helicopter. This was our portage day.

    Turnback Canyon is a place on the Alsek–a river known more for its pristine beauty, than its dangerous rapids–where the valley walls contract from roughly 1.5 miles wide to about 30 feet over a very short span. The boils, holes, eddies, and falls created by that dramatic change in the river’s dimensions, makes it virtually impossible to pass through and survive. In 1971, the legendary kayaker Walt Blackadar became the first to run Turnback. It was by shear luck–he said later on–that he lived to talk about it. Only having successfully paddled through the treacherous canyon did he claim it was unrunnable and he would never think of doing it again. Afterward he said, if he could have turned and gone back after the very first rapid, he absolutely would have–a humbling admission from a man who had seen, perhaps, more whitewater adventure than any other by the time he died kayaking seven years later. Since then only a handful of boats–inflatables like ours, as well as kayaks–have tried to make it through Turnback Canyon, and just a few of them have emerged safely on the other end. Thus, we arranged for a helicopter to meet us at the last camp before the canyon, to haul us and our gear over it. The cowboy pilot at the helm was like someone out of the movies, telling us one moment that he wasn’t allowed to dive into the canyon, and the next, doing just that at a speed so jarring and exciting that I simultaneously wanted to lose my lunch and get my pilot’s license. Once on the other side, we reassembled our gear and began the leg of our journey that traversed the lower end of the Alsek, heading toward Alsek Lake, and beyond that, the ocean.

    Helicopter portage of Turnback CanyonAlsek Lake was the site of our final night. But more than that, it was a culmination for me: so full of grace and beauty, awesome size and geology, wildlife, quietude, color, and light that I thought, if the entire two weeks were spent there alone, the trip would still have been amazing. The entrance into the lake began at the tail end of one of the most arduous rains we experienced. After paddling through the morning, we stopped at a beach at the head of Alsek Lake. A short walk through fields of wildflowers–blazing Indian paintbrush, fireweed, goldenrod, and more–opened up to the iceberg-laden water, still hidden in afternoon fog. Through that mist, we’d find our last camp.

    As we paddled across the lake, we slowly entered what might have been a completely different universe from the rain and cold of just minutes before. The clouds broke and the blue sky opened over us, light beaming onto the house-sized blocks of ice floating before us. I looked around and saw, between narrow spits of land in the distance, the vast plains of three tremendous glaciers. They were the Alsek Glacier–spilling into the lake, its towering face calving huge chunks of ice; the Grand Plateau Glacier; and the sprawling Novatak Glacier. And even farther away, almost painted on the background, Mt. Fairweather rose high into the sky. At roughly 15,300 feet, Fairweather is the region’s highest peak, and it is situated practically right next to the ocean. The name comes with a touch of irony as it can generally only be seen when the weather is clear, which is not often in those parts, but we were the lucky ones.

    Alsek LakeAs we tied our boats together–creating a single, wide float–and paddled among the ice, with blue evening sky overhead and a rainbow of colors reflecting off the surrounding water, I spotted the flash of a great bald eagle sweeping down the valley wall. Graceful, fast, and furious with its talons flared, the eagle slammed into the placid lake and almost immediately began to struggle under the weight of the salmon in its claws as it took flight again. It was an image I had only dreamed of up to that point. And as that dream slipped into reality, I thought, that–for me–was the true heart of the Alsek.

  • Panama

    Panama MapPanama has a checkered past, but as a modern country it runs one of the world’s most important waterways, the Panama Canal, and has built for itself a large offshore investing business. From its capitol at Panama City to its rainforests and rich coastlines, Panama is a beautiful land, but it suffers from increasing crime and an uncertain government.

    Panama is a proud and striking nation with a population of seven indigenous groups and a strong Spanish legacy. And it’s is a wonderful place to travel, as long as you’re careful and conscious of your surroundings.

    If you want to see Panama at its cultural best, Carnaval is celebrated the weekend before Ash Wednesday in Panama City. It’s one of the largest and most vibrant Carnaval celebrations in the world.

    Traveling in Panama
    If you are an American, Japanese, New Zealander, or Venezuelan citizen, it is required that you have a tourist visa or tourist card to enter Panama. You should contact your embassy or consulate for details.

    While traveling in Panama is considerably cheaper than traveling in the United States, for instance, it will also tend to be pricier than most other Central American countries. Expect to pay about US$20-30 per day, on a moderate budget, for Panama Mapfood, accommodations, and other expenses. A budget traveler can find room and board for as low as US$10-15 per day. The Panamanian currency is called the balboa, but it’s exactly the same as the U.S. dollar, from the rate of exchange (which is unnecessary if using U.S. currency) all the way to the bills they use. Even the coins are the same shape, weight, and substance as U.S. coins. Exchanging other types of currency can be easily done at a casa de cambio, of which there are many throughout the small nation.

    Tipping 10% of your bill can be done at finer restaurants; however, it’s not necessary at more casual establishments, such as cafes. Haggling over goods is not customary in Panama.

    Health Risks in Panama
    Health risks include dengue, hantavirus, malaria, rabies, and yellow fever. It is advised that you consult a doctor about what shots you may need before traveling to Panama.

    Weather in Panama
    The best time to go to Panama is during the dry season, between December and April. During the rainy season the weather can be humid, damp, and very uncomfortable, especially if you take part in strenuous activities like hiking, etc. The rain in Panama typically comes in short downpours that have a cooling and cleansing effect on the air.

    Panama Information
    Population: 2,800,000
    Government: Constitutional Republic
    Square Miles: 30,420 sq mi (78,000 sq km)
    Capitol: Panama City (pop: 700,000)
    Official Languages: Spanish, English, and Native languages
    People: 65% mestizo, 14% African descent, 10% Spanish descent, 10% Indian
    Religion: 85% Roman Catholic, 10% Protestant, 5% Islamic
    Major products/industries: Banking, construction, petroleum refining, brewing, cement and other construction materials, sugar milling, shipping, and agriculture